tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-53162688232818040442024-03-17T00:22:40.278-07:00The Tinkers WorkshopDave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.comBlogger525125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-6481573763476670372019-07-25T07:51:00.002-07:002019-09-11T08:35:44.254-07:00The End.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">Hello Everyone!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Over the past several months I have debated over and over again whether or not to continue with this blog. Not that this process has not had it's positive points along the way or that I have had any bad experience because of my efforts. Neither has been the case. In a few short weeks the blog would have been running for eight years. A very long time. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I have been watching the readership numbers go up and down over these past eight years with amazement over having had so many visitors along the way. Over a half a million readers from around the world in over 100 countries. In all this time I have never gotten a disrespectful or nasty comment from anyone about the postings I shared with all of you. That alone is quite an accomplishment in itself so I feel very fortunate in being able to say that. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I had to go back to the postings just out of curiosity to see how many projects that I worked on over these past eight years. The best I can figure is that the number comes up to roughly 125 different projects. That averages out to a little over 15 different projects a year. Again another nice accomplishment over that amount of time. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">All of this has been quite rewarding for me and I want to thank all of you who have followed along on this journey. I hope that I have given at least some of you some inspiration, enjoyment, and laughter along the way. With that being said I wanted all of you to know that this will be the last posting on the blog. I have had a great time and now am moving on to other interests. It has been a great ride and I wish all of you good luck with your projects. I hope that you will find as much joy as I have in creating something new in your workshop or have come up with a solution to a problem that has been driving you crazy for some time. Thanks for all the comments and visits to the blog. All of you have made these past eight years worth every minute of effort in the workshop. Best wishes to all of you.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Sincerely,</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Dave Langkamp</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The Tinker's Workshop</span></div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-52094216767988206092019-07-13T09:55:00.001-07:002019-07-13T09:57:41.194-07:001/6th Scale 3D Printed 1927 Bugatti Type 35 Model Project Part 6<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">Back to work once again on the 1/6th scale 1927 Bugatti Type 35 model has produced a pile of parts and a lot of 3D printing to get to this point. I had to look back on the last post I did about this project. It was this last May. Like most projects other things tend to put projects on hold due to other priorities. This has obviously been the case while working on this model. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-khXSbPFnALE/XSoC63_B1oI/AAAAAAABJ3c/lFckIcKNfGkVgY6vr4V3P9dWlaC_Ys67QCLcBGAs/s1600/Bugatti%2B1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="783" data-original-width="1173" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-khXSbPFnALE/XSoC63_B1oI/AAAAAAABJ3c/lFckIcKNfGkVgY6vr4V3P9dWlaC_Ys67QCLcBGAs/s640/Bugatti%2B1.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This is the finished design that I put together in Fusion 360 software. This portion of the project has taken me at least 200 hours just to get the design worked out. Hopefully I have crossed all the "T's" and dotted all the "I's" while working out the design.</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z-lHQImf5Bc/XSoDe9EF-LI/AAAAAAABJ3k/MFT8z-g7pFQphZDHTJ0EChEHN3Zlv5VDACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2814.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1284" data-original-width="1600" height="512" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z-lHQImf5Bc/XSoDe9EF-LI/AAAAAAABJ3k/MFT8z-g7pFQphZDHTJ0EChEHN3Zlv5VDACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2814.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is a good shot of some of the major parts that have already been 3D printed for the model. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ltWIDKL-QGo/XSoDxhs9iSI/AAAAAAABJ3s/hyBZzK8LK58LgnCgHkr0zlGTEgYe4v3xACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2811.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ltWIDKL-QGo/XSoDxhs9iSI/AAAAAAABJ3s/hyBZzK8LK58LgnCgHkr0zlGTEgYe4v3xACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2811.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This is a good look at the floor of the driver's compartment. On the left of the floor you can see the pedals for the driver. Then more to the center is the transmission and the floor bracing. Farther to the right are the seats without the seatback and then finally the bell housing for the rear axle.</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iIsA_AH0Z_4/XSoJpKrWGCI/AAAAAAABJ54/rsHusMk30vwRuu45zrPW6uwMR2XErukugCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2799.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iIsA_AH0Z_4/XSoJpKrWGCI/AAAAAAABJ54/rsHusMk30vwRuu45zrPW6uwMR2XErukugCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2799.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-exisC9rVoiQ/XSoJq3ztMXI/AAAAAAABJ6I/KvaAYKBeT4YXbZDVkzYjRaK0xg2Lz2RSwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2802.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-exisC9rVoiQ/XSoJq3ztMXI/AAAAAAABJ6I/KvaAYKBeT4YXbZDVkzYjRaK0xg2Lz2RSwCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2802.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SqW-tb26hTg/XSoEh0cfISI/AAAAAAABJ34/N9muTKd2cDsFRjENgtJKGZoDO6hf75M2wCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2798.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SqW-tb26hTg/XSoEh0cfISI/AAAAAAABJ34/N9muTKd2cDsFRjENgtJKGZoDO6hf75M2wCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2798.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">A few more views of the frame with the rear axle, seats and floor of the model. </span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rq0gs-yN3zc/XSoFzeTJDTI/AAAAAAABJ4c/dSYhehzx5kYcnUYgdqzsLAmLX6Kv8v3CwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_3061.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rq0gs-yN3zc/XSoFzeTJDTI/AAAAAAABJ4c/dSYhehzx5kYcnUYgdqzsLAmLX6Kv8v3CwCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_3061.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5lN1rzF_p6w/XSoFzRbtiiI/AAAAAAABJ4k/TPDNT935u54AjqIbfSqveUTlXjzYPhMFACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_3065.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="425" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5lN1rzF_p6w/XSoFzRbtiiI/AAAAAAABJ4k/TPDNT935u54AjqIbfSqveUTlXjzYPhMFACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_3065.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-size: large;">The big news with this post is the completion of the 3D printing of the boat tail rear of the model. This part is a very distinctive part of the Bugatti and took 44 hours to 3D print. The image above shows you what the part looks like right off of the printer before support material was removed. </span></span><b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xHXeqHTgkxQ/XSoF3909HyI/AAAAAAABJ40/6sXpVIwA4BwvhRx2brwH8Sm8qVVmwXILACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_3068.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xHXeqHTgkxQ/XSoF3909HyI/AAAAAAABJ40/6sXpVIwA4BwvhRx2brwH8Sm8qVVmwXILACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_3068.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Lots and lots of support material needed to be removed from this part. I had to be careful not to break any of the supports for the frame that are on the inside of this part while removing this pile of support material. It took me an hour an a half to get the job done. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e46_DDeP6o8/XSoF4OVU1ZI/AAAAAAABJ44/VEIYbsTyf5k5TOVX_TXp4dEeHM5ZBeglACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_3070.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e46_DDeP6o8/XSoF4OVU1ZI/AAAAAAABJ44/VEIYbsTyf5k5TOVX_TXp4dEeHM5ZBeglACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_3070.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is a closer look at the finished part after the support material had been removed. I am really happy that the bolts that are on the body line worked out as well as they did. It's a nice detail that will look good on the finished model. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lorgqC9MkJA/XSoGeGu0mZI/AAAAAAABJ5k/oncQXg5sBC4oa-W-igy9VB03cmCI0gWCACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_3072.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1439" data-original-width="1600" height="574" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lorgqC9MkJA/XSoGeGu0mZI/AAAAAAABJ5k/oncQXg5sBC4oa-W-igy9VB03cmCI0gWCACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_3072.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The hole on the top of the part is for the fuel filler cap. I also am pleased that the louvers at the rear of the tail that worked out very well. Another nice detail that will make the model stand out.</span> </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XgJylSWMwNg/XSoI1vXbngI/AAAAAAABJ5w/MyKefb8e01QczvFjymrnDAv6q981aDJ5wCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_3075.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1557" data-original-width="1600" height="622" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XgJylSWMwNg/XSoI1vXbngI/AAAAAAABJ5w/MyKefb8e01QczvFjymrnDAv6q981aDJ5wCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_3075.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> The boat tail section of the model is a pretty good sized part being 5 inches tall, 5.5 inches wide and 10 inches long. With my cell phone sitting next to it gives you a good idea of how big it is. The largest part in the entire model so I am glad that it turned out as well as it did. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">That's about it for this latest post about the Bugatti model. In the coming weeks I hope to make more steady progress on the model. The two rather large parts of the model that will be 3D printed next is the driver's compartment and the front hood. Both of these are big pieces but I don't think they will take anywhere near as long to print as the boat tail has with this project. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> A new record for 3D printing for me on this project having to make a part that took 44 hours. I'll post more as I move forward with this project. Should be interesting once I start putting everything together to complete this project. Stay tuned for further developments. </span></div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-54338092520288989772019-07-11T15:18:00.004-07:002021-03-02T07:10:05.405-08:00New Dune Buggy Roof Installation Project<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">I was not sure if this post was going to get out at all after the events that had taken place over the past few weeks here at the workshop. Some good events and some not so good. The best event was the arrival of my new Mini Cooper. As most of you already know and have read about, I am a Mini Cooper nut to say the least. I had ordered a new Mini Cooper to replace my orange 2014 Mini and the it finally arrived last weekend after waiting two and a half months. </span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qffTt5AZMFA/XSeXVIlVnWI/AAAAAAABJzg/1ModzlxW-ywXMVgbEUalNQ6NTktM39sGQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_3006.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qffTt5AZMFA/XSeXVIlVnWI/AAAAAAABJzg/1ModzlxW-ywXMVgbEUalNQ6NTktM39sGQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_3006.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> I am thrilled with the new car so that is always a good event. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> The bad event that happened these past few weeks was a major storm that hit my little town. Every tree in town either had some storm damage or had complete storm damage where the tree was knocked down and needed to be removed. Two of my neighbors had this happen. I had more than enough sticks and branches in my yard that took three days to clear. A pain to say the least. I also have a tree that needs to be cut down not because of the storm but the fact that it is dyeing. I was amazed that the 72 mph storm did not knock it down in the process as well. So I am lucky in that respect anyway. So that catches you up with things around my neighborhood so let me get to this weeks project.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I thought I was done working on my dune buggy with all the projects that I have done on it so far but with the installation of a new convertible top I was mistaken. The top fit my dune buggy for the most part and installing it was not a real problem. The one thing that I was not happy with the new top was how it fit the roll bar and windshield where you climbed into the car. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-76LsXJobldM/XSeB4dAYKJI/AAAAAAABJvI/2EvpGqlAuQoJQfepB2IT1RwiwkZ7dmn5gCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2945.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-76LsXJobldM/XSeB4dAYKJI/AAAAAAABJvI/2EvpGqlAuQoJQfepB2IT1RwiwkZ7dmn5gCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2945.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sU6mlzk_yCM/XSeB4ZPvmSI/AAAAAAABJvE/GhNwBAwFoJ8NmBZ6svIIGzqZiUCMNezkQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2946.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sU6mlzk_yCM/XSeB4ZPvmSI/AAAAAAABJvE/GhNwBAwFoJ8NmBZ6svIIGzqZiUCMNezkQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2946.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">You can see from the photos above how the roof does not quite lay right just above the driver and passenger side openings where you climb in with the top on. </span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s8QNydlXhXA/XSexz4oqlMI/AAAAAAABJ04/auh01JPjko0vlOKlpx_i3m7XaWKLtR5MACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_3056.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1292" data-original-width="1600" height="516" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s8QNydlXhXA/XSexz4oqlMI/AAAAAAABJ04/auh01JPjko0vlOKlpx_i3m7XaWKLtR5MACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_3056.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Part of the issue may be with the new installation of windshield clips that the roof snaps on to at the front corners of the roof. Originally these snaps were designed to be mounted using metal screws that had to be mounted to the windshield frame by drilling holes into the frame itself. Not something I thought was a good idea from the start. I designed this simple clip that mounts to the windshield frame and has the snap mounted to it so no drilling is required to mount it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">When I mounted the new bikini convertible top to these clips it may have caused the issue with the roof not laying right on both sides of the car. I went to worn on the problem and came up with a solution that makes the roof even more secure while driving down the road as well as giving the roof line at the entrances of the car a nice look in the process.</span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-agLOCcNu-sg/XSeDUigcbbI/AAAAAAABJvY/JOIHawGVE-E0Ml-XhiNaiK9v_FAlCXskACLcBGAs/s1600/Support%2BFrame.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="664" data-original-width="1321" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-agLOCcNu-sg/XSeDUigcbbI/AAAAAAABJvY/JOIHawGVE-E0Ml-XhiNaiK9v_FAlCXskACLcBGAs/s640/Support%2BFrame.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I designed a support frame for both sides of the car that would be made out of a custom fit fiberglass panel, fiberglass rods, two 3-D printed end mounts that fit between the rear roll bar and the windshield and four 3-D printed curved fiberglass rod mounts. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zePn3pKusi0/XSeD8UAbKDI/AAAAAAABJvg/jhwSEUSN6mkUrjz7UWF1917WkFt2gsj-QCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2952.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zePn3pKusi0/XSeD8UAbKDI/AAAAAAABJvg/jhwSEUSN6mkUrjz7UWF1917WkFt2gsj-QCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2952.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">To make the fiberglass curved panels I made simple templates from my computer design of the part using Fusion 360 software. From the computer design I printed out templates and then traced the shapes I need on to one inch thick Styrofoam. I then cut each curved shape out on my bandsaw. Along with these parts I took a long pieces of two inch thick Styrofoam that I would use as my base and also cut 1/4 inch thick one inch wide Styrofoam strips to make the inner surface of the form.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I hot glued the curved pieces to the two inch thick base as shown above. Each of these curved pieces were six inches apart so getting them in place was an easy task. After the curved pieces for the fiberglass mold had been mounted I then started hot gluing the foam strips on to the curved pieces or ribs. This would give me the exact shape that I needed to match the roll bar and windshield frame in the car. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is what the form looked like once it had been put together. I did not have to completely cover the larger ribs as it would not be needed in the car when the fiber glassed part was completed. You can see the twist in the form that was needed for the fiberglass panel that I needed for the project. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I had covered the Styrofoam form for the driver's side fiberglass panel with clear packaging tape so it was easy to remove once it had cured. In the photo above you can see how shiny the inside of the fiberglass panel is because of the smooth surface of the tape. Also in the photo above I had already mounted the end mounts for the panel and installed the fiberglass rods and their respective mounts using fiberglass epoxy resin and micro-balloons. The resin and micro-balloon mixture makes a perfect filler and bonds parts together easily. I clamped all the parts in place and let them cure over night. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The fiberglass assembly had to be duplicated in reverse for the passenger's side of the car as both assemblies are mirror images of one another. I took the Styrofoam form apart and rebuilt it in reverse so that I would get an exact mirrored assembly for the passengers side. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5Y3eou6RhG4/XSeH2yTqSyI/AAAAAAABJwo/k45-VqiZQ-UYaK9ziSk32VpPydJvMdSHQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2971.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5Y3eou6RhG4/XSeH2yTqSyI/AAAAAAABJwo/k45-VqiZQ-UYaK9ziSk32VpPydJvMdSHQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2971.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is a good look at the driver's side panel mounted to the dune buggy's roll bar and windshield. I really like the look of the orange fiberglass rods but unfortunately I was not able to figure out how to keep them that way when painting the parts so I opted to paint both panels inside and out in gloss black paint.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Another good thing about adding the fiberglass rods into the assemblies was that now the panels are more solid with very little flexing to it. It would also take some real effort to break the panels when they are installed on to the dune buggy. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGQJ8B5Jk1M/XSeHgN133lI/AAAAAAABJwc/OLzguepN1d8xMk8kkv3eaiRUywQf181uwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2981.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="897" height="546" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGQJ8B5Jk1M/XSeHgN133lI/AAAAAAABJwc/OLzguepN1d8xMk8kkv3eaiRUywQf181uwCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2981.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here are both panels before painting and after painting had been completed. I do like the nice glossy finish on the panels and the structure when mounted on to the dune buggy looks nice on the inside of the car as well. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wr9gepn3kwI/XSewKiOnJ0I/AAAAAAABJ0o/l5NKBVjLUEg4hJl_RlqHQ5dRTqFpOzCQQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_3057.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wr9gepn3kwI/XSewKiOnJ0I/AAAAAAABJ0o/l5NKBVjLUEg4hJl_RlqHQ5dRTqFpOzCQQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_3057.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 24px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">To hold the roof securely to the new panels and get a nicer look in the process I installed Velcro patches to the top lower edge of each panel.</span><b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The roof then was pulled tight to match the Velcro that were also installed on the underside of the roof. I used industrial grade Velcro with a holding force of 10 lbs per patch. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Before and after front view driver's side.</span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GQzID14ybY0/XSeV_dLe_QI/AAAAAAABJy4/YqSO3j_WvTg82GQGjVMw_d4acd3ZfiWwgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2946.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GQzID14ybY0/XSeV_dLe_QI/AAAAAAABJy4/YqSO3j_WvTg82GQGjVMw_d4acd3ZfiWwgCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2946.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ie8Gyu4XIVA/XSeWoa2aUsI/AAAAAAABJzQ/Xmok1XJYER4eeGGHWCLFTWkOnK5HkWUhgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_3047.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ie8Gyu4XIVA/XSeWoa2aUsI/AAAAAAABJzQ/Xmok1XJYER4eeGGHWCLFTWkOnK5HkWUhgCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_3047.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Before and after rear view passenger's side.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 24px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">As you can see the roof line is a lot cleaner looking now and will be a safety feature with the Velcro holding everything in place while driving down the road as well. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 24px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 24px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">To remove the roof now takes only a couple of minutes more because of the new roof panels but it is easily done if I want to go cruising with the top off in the evening when it is cooler out. During the day with the top up help keep the sun from beating down on me too.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I'm not sure if this is the last project for the dune buggy. I can't think of anything else I want or need to have done at this point but you just never know. I am sure something else will spring to mind in the coming months. For now it will be nice to have the option to have sun or no sun if it is to hot. The look of the new top looks just as good on the dune buggy as without. Works for me. </span></div>
Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-20199863530737778542019-06-25T10:04:00.000-07:002019-06-25T10:04:10.696-07:00Creality CR-10 S4 Filament Sensor Assembly Redesign Of A Redesign<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">As with most redesigns of either a part or assembly you never know if the redesign worked properly until you have used it for some time. This has been the case of my filament sensor assembly for my Creality CR-10 S4 3D printer. One thing that always bugged me from the start was this sensor that constantly got vibrated off of it's mounting location due to it's poor design. Here is how it all started back in September of 2018 while running my printer.</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qz-QYO4ShhY/XRJJpqwUVII/AAAAAAABJPU/XqpMFn3YHz4OKsfVp-GTTvVPOzuwBKeYgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_1824.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="426" data-original-width="640" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qz-QYO4ShhY/XRJJpqwUVII/AAAAAAABJPU/XqpMFn3YHz4OKsfVp-GTTvVPOzuwBKeYgCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_1824.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> This is what the original sensor assembly looked like that came on my Creality CR-10-S4 3D printer. The small box on the left of the assembly houses a small circuit board with a contact switch that activates once the filament runs out after passing through the sensor and then triggering the switch to halt the machine so you can reload a new spool of filament to continue your project.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> The only problem with this setup was the attachment of this assembly to the printer itself. It simply was slid on to a flat plate near the stepper motor that pulls the printer filament into the machine to make your part. This sensor over time would vibrate off of the mounting plated and be left dangling while the part continued printing. Not something I thought was a good idea.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">So with the first revision of the sensor assembly I eliminated the small part that slid on to the mounting plate and made a more solid mount that bolted directly to the machine through the mounting holes that held the guide wheels for the left side of the printer "Z" axis. In the images above you can see the assembled sensor assembly as well as the exploded view of the same assembly.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Just below the blue top cover plate is the sensor circuit board that make this assembly actually work. Just a simple on/off switch that comes on when the filament runs out. This assembly mounted perfectly to my 3D printer but had a flaw in the design and I put off correctly it until yesterday. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The problem with this setup was that it was difficult to install new filament through this assembly and have it also be fed easily into the stepper motor drive assembly at the same time. It seemed at times to have no issues and other times I would fuss with it for 10 minutes or more to get new filament loaded into the printer. An issue that had become more and more frustrating while trying to 3D print parts.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">What was going on was that the original mount made loading new filament into the machine simple because the sensor could be removed from the printer first. Then new filament was passed through it's opening and then on to the stepper motor drive assembly opening. Once this was accomplished all that was needed to be done was remount the sensor assembly and printing could continue on before the reload was needed. But this just put everything back the way it was where the filament sensor would eventually vibrate off of the printer once again over time. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">To finally eliminate the bad part of the first redesign I had to make the modification just a bit more user friendly. In the image above you can see the first redesign on the left and the second redesign on the right. On the left redesign the yellow column is mounted to the 3D printer along with the sensor switch, blue cover plate, three mounting screws and the larger bolts and nuts to hold the assembly to the 3D printer. Again this looked good but made it difficult to reload new filament as it could not be removed from the machine while trying to put in new filament.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">On the right you can see the new improved filament sensor assembly. In this assembly you can see the redesigned yellow sensor mount, four neodymium magnets, a red sensor mounting housing, the sensor circuit board, the blue circuit board cover plate, three cover plate screws, and the large mounting bolts, nuts and spacers for the complete assembly. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This new assembly now has a solid mount as before and the capability to remove the sensor from the assembly quickly and easily because of the small magnets between the upper and lower sections of the assembly. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In the photo above you can see the new assembly mounted on to the 3D printer. The white arrow is pointing to the filament out sensor, the orange arrow to the stepper motor that moves the filament into the printer, and the green arrow shows the upper mounting bolt that holds the top portion of the lower assembly firmly in place. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The new magnetic mounts for the filament sensor are strong enough to hold the sensor in position while 3D printing but not so strong that it makes it difficult to pull the switch off of it's mount while reloading the machine with a new spool of filament. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I think this will be the perfect solution to the problem that I was having with my first redesign. As I said from the start sometimes you have to use the new design for a while to make sure it is what is needed to fix the original problem with a design. In my case I ended up finding an additional problem simply because I could nto remove the sensor while loading new filament into the printer.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> I will use the new setup for awhile to make sure I have everything ironed out the way I want. If not then I will try again but for right now this looks to be the best solution to the original issue as well as the found issue I was having with the filament sensor. At least I hope so anyway. Time will tell. </span></div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-61829214586373267912019-06-18T08:14:00.001-07:002019-06-18T08:14:53.085-07:00New LED Dune Buggy Signal Lights Project Is Completed!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: white; color: black; display: inline !important; float: none; font-family: Times New Roman; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-size: large;">This week on the blog I put the finishing touches to the LED dune buggy signal lights project. This is how it all turned out.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PgXd7zkads0/XQj2ullO_YI/AAAAAAABJMU/U0PtPhkWw8026x_FXvh7UrZz0sARg8vNgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2888.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="425" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PgXd7zkads0/XQj2ullO_YI/AAAAAAABJMU/U0PtPhkWw8026x_FXvh7UrZz0sARg8vNgCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2888.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here once again is how one of the housings for the new LED tail lights looked after having been sanded and primed for the first time. As you can see it is "OK" at best as it is nowhere near ready for paint and it doesn't fit the profile of the body as properly as it should. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wIwCafPCkIA/XQj20VVRVPI/AAAAAAABJMw/viMDtblBKmgBXUHmFigYU2GgbDQIVIAdgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2905.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wIwCafPCkIA/XQj20VVRVPI/AAAAAAABJMw/viMDtblBKmgBXUHmFigYU2GgbDQIVIAdgCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2905.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">To solve the fit up issue I covered the body with plastic and then remounted the LED housing to it's original position using small spring clamps. I then puttied the mating surfaces of the housing and the body where they met up. The putty is a mixture of fiber glass resin and micro-balloons. Micro-balloons are micro-spheric hollow glass balls that make up a lightweight filler when mixed with the resin. I let the putty mixture cure overnight and then removed it from the dune buggy. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IuFnO7Pq9q8/XQj2dlJfaoI/AAAAAAABJMg/U1VX1JVPcZMoC9jrPJ6jMGxAgYXf4xUDQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2919.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IuFnO7Pq9q8/XQj2dlJfaoI/AAAAAAABJMg/U1VX1JVPcZMoC9jrPJ6jMGxAgYXf4xUDQCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2919.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i7DL9Mutp7E/XQj2d60DK6I/AAAAAAABJMY/IcvSXoS3n6U-NZKhAJ944bOeHzzakeSkwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2920.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i7DL9Mutp7E/XQj2d60DK6I/AAAAAAABJMY/IcvSXoS3n6U-NZKhAJ944bOeHzzakeSkwCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2920.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here you can see the difference from the first fit-up of the housing to the body of the dune buggy. A perfect fit now that it has been sanded smooth to match the profile of the housing. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wU7DUHSc2nY/XQj1AA22R7I/AAAAAAABJLw/4SrCuKmurv4x1TGMf2Y5-9q20oKZztYhwCEwYBhgL/s1600/Housing%2BCap%2B3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="658" data-original-width="981" height="428" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wU7DUHSc2nY/XQj1AA22R7I/AAAAAAABJLw/4SrCuKmurv4x1TGMf2Y5-9q20oKZztYhwCEwYBhgL/s640/Housing%2BCap%2B3.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The back of the housing for the LED tail lights had a large 4.5" diameter hole in the design. This was exactly the size of hole that was cut into the body of the dune buggy for the old tail lights. With the housing having the same size opening it made it simpler to align the lights to the body of the dune buggy and have both lights positioned correctly when mounted. It also made mounting the new housings to the body easier as well by allowing me to mark and drill the new mounting holes for the housing. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The one drawback to having such a large hole was what to do with such a large opening after the lights had been installed. A perfect doorway for any little critter to call home so another part needed to be designed and installed. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The yellow part in the image above was the answer. This little cover was mounted to the inside of the housing to seal the large opening yet allow the wiring to be inserted into the housing for the LED lights with a much smaller hole. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_bU3r_tGDcE/XQj1ADuZjSI/AAAAAAABJLw/AzN0A_KgUsg3NoYYkJHOMz0-DNng02BwQCEwYBhgL/s1600/Housing%2BCap%2B2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="761" data-original-width="907" height="536" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_bU3r_tGDcE/XQj1ADuZjSI/AAAAAAABJLw/AzN0A_KgUsg3NoYYkJHOMz0-DNng02BwQCEwYBhgL/s640/Housing%2BCap%2B2.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">These two images best display how the new housing cover was mounted into the assembly. This was easily done with the same putty mixture that I used to get the fit up corrected for the housing and body. I bonded the cover to the inside of the housing and then let the epoxy resin putty again cure overnight and the little cover was then secured permanently in place.</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k4hUDHJ4sTE/XQj2g4gC7gI/AAAAAAABJMc/JCPnL44HPMUp7UKBS7smiZc8txaUwMFXwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2927.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k4hUDHJ4sTE/XQj2g4gC7gI/AAAAAAABJMc/JCPnL44HPMUp7UKBS7smiZc8txaUwMFXwCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2927.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">After the housing had been properly sanded and painted a nice glossy black, I was able to finally get at the last step of the project and mount and wire up the new tail lights. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cDuugTlJMJE/XQj2fnA64KI/AAAAAAABJMY/X9djX7cAgGA2rsdFSS4toTTV2lWtw60dwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2924.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cDuugTlJMJE/XQj2fnA64KI/AAAAAAABJMY/X9djX7cAgGA2rsdFSS4toTTV2lWtw60dwCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2924.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The new LED lights are a vast improvement from the old tail lights that were in the car. This also really improved the look of the tail end with the 1964 Mustang tail lights. I really like the chrome trim and the red accent that I used that is around the tail lights. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GO9j3w7jV-o/XQj2hIhuiwI/AAAAAAABJMg/EYKhPneUKYQ7CnM_VkVehyKOQi2vxWPPgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2934.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GO9j3w7jV-o/XQj2hIhuiwI/AAAAAAABJMg/EYKhPneUKYQ7CnM_VkVehyKOQi2vxWPPgCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2934.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">With the housings for the tail lights being painted glossy black it matches nicely with the rest of the black that is already in the car. It took me some time to get the wiring all nicely tucked away under the body of the car so that was the major part of the work to the installation of the lights. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qSONI2dnB_g/XQj2h-6xbOI/AAAAAAABJMk/XkAITh5YgPcEF_G5KY4cLAR1YHo529aUwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2939.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qSONI2dnB_g/XQj2h-6xbOI/AAAAAAABJMk/XkAITh5YgPcEF_G5KY4cLAR1YHo529aUwCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2939.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I have to give a big shout out and thanks to my brother Carl who painted the LED tail light housings for me. He did a wonderful job in one day's time where it would have taken me a week to get the results that he is very skilled at. Thanks brother!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Now I can take the rest of summer and get some miles on the little dune buggy and show it off at some of the local car shows in the surrounding area. </span></div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-67475337839562954032019-06-11T17:55:00.000-07:002019-06-11T17:55:59.738-07:00New LED Dune Buggy Signal Lights Project Part 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: white; color: black; display: inline !important; float: none; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 24px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">Things are going well this week with the LED dune buggy signal light project. I have managed to get through all of the 3D printing that needed to be done and have started smoothing out the parts to get them ready for paint. So with all of this progress I thought I should show you how it all looks at this point.</span><b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2J01HSGXC3o/XQA_H1bPWxI/AAAAAAABI-w/qTzjQ48AAhUbRqy8pT2zHhMXcBK82aNbwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2856.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2J01HSGXC3o/XQA_H1bPWxI/AAAAAAABI-w/qTzjQ48AAhUbRqy8pT2zHhMXcBK82aNbwCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2856.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This part which is one of the LED light housings for this project took 35 hours to 3D print. I am very pleased with how it turned out. The vertical wall that you see in the part above was a support wall only used during the printing of the part. It was removed very easily after the print was completed. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">With the two housings that I need for the project, I also needed to 3D print the mounting plates for the lights as well. This added an additional 16 hours of 3D printing. After having completed this portion of the project I am also more and more impressed with my Creality CR-10 S4 3D printer as well. A real workhorse to make such nice parts for this project. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3zqD9w_m1Ko/XQA_paUr9gI/AAAAAAABI_c/7EKoVa2jBKIpYnHxNX8VUmZ45wHgEWb3wCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2868.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3zqD9w_m1Ko/XQA_paUr9gI/AAAAAAABI_c/7EKoVa2jBKIpYnHxNX8VUmZ45wHgEWb3wCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2868.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here are the two LED light mounting plates for the project. The one on the right is still in primer and glazing putty and the one on the left has had all of the sanding completed along with a couple of nice coats of glossy red paint. They will look great when both are completed and installed in the final assembly.</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OmdbpNUKx88/XQA_eDa_ybI/AAAAAAABI_U/p9OMBZHVyT4ociNJkfqqQas8FLfau4c_ACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2865.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OmdbpNUKx88/XQA_eDa_ybI/AAAAAAABI_U/p9OMBZHVyT4ociNJkfqqQas8FLfau4c_ACEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2865.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rKRONxJRD_Y/XQA_n_1SK9I/AAAAAAABI_Y/JRSsQHdYfj4nrq9Y1JMkLASwVMVx49o1QCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2866.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rKRONxJRD_Y/XQA_n_1SK9I/AAAAAAABI_Y/JRSsQHdYfj4nrq9Y1JMkLASwVMVx49o1QCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2866.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">After the light housings had been 3D printed I decided that I should strengthen them by coating them inside and out with several layers of fiberglass. The housings were only printed with a 20% infill (honeycomb webbing on the inside walls of the part) which kept the print time down to 35 hours. If I had doubled the infill to 40% then the print time per housing would have doubled to 70 hours time per part. Not something I really wanted to do. So the fiberglass layers seemed like a smart choice. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">After the parts had cured overnight the housing now are strong enough to stand on. Not that I would want to do that but it's nice to know that the strength is there just the same with very little additional weight gain.</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AkCc6NkDHoQ/XQBFSM2u5ZI/AAAAAAABJBU/FJc9JPDz2ngcENmFjV7K6Uw_5VUYRuwNwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2875.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AkCc6NkDHoQ/XQBFSM2u5ZI/AAAAAAABJBU/FJc9JPDz2ngcENmFjV7K6Uw_5VUYRuwNwCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2875.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Next the housings were coated with a layer of fiberglass resin and micro-balloons. Micro-balloons are microscopic hollow glass balls which looks like a fine powder. This is mixed with the fiberglass resin to form a thick putty. This putty mixture is then spread on to the parts to fill the weave. In the photo above the part on the right has the putty mixture on it just after it has been spread on. After this putty has cured overnight it is sanded down to look like the part on the left. A much smoother finish that is a good base to prep for primer and later paint.</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Mipn7TjqCtM/XQBAR1X-xxI/AAAAAAABI_8/CcZpxQICR1gB0Ja_QPqn9HJhXZDHTPntQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2896.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Mipn7TjqCtM/XQBAR1X-xxI/AAAAAAABI_8/CcZpxQICR1gB0Ja_QPqn9HJhXZDHTPntQCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2896.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here you can see a big difference after one of the housing had been sanded smooth and painted with primer. Not a hard task to do but it does take some time to get all of the flaws out that the primer shows in the part after it has been sprayed on. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iKMcrTiGNyY/XQA_6WvViLI/AAAAAAABI_k/CpRV6r2UC3chhwj195rocAzC39TxxAhKQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2882.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iKMcrTiGNyY/XQA_6WvViLI/AAAAAAABI_k/CpRV6r2UC3chhwj195rocAzC39TxxAhKQCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2882.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AmTd3VYV3qI/XQBAORBgUyI/AAAAAAABI_4/E_tNCS-o3cIMs2rdRuy-T_NQrnU7UCvawCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2885.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AmTd3VYV3qI/XQBAORBgUyI/AAAAAAABI_4/E_tNCS-o3cIMs2rdRuy-T_NQrnU7UCvawCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2885.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In order to get a perfect fit of the housing to the body of the dune buggy I first clamped one of the housing to the body just to see how close I was in designing the part. From the photos above I am pretty happy with how it look and fits but I know it could be much better. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zWZNo0btBIc/XQBArbdd6SI/AAAAAAABJAM/6BpqcKMQyu8OpyiBbl0IYZFHjugcMYu9ACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2900.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zWZNo0btBIc/XQBArbdd6SI/AAAAAAABJAM/6BpqcKMQyu8OpyiBbl0IYZFHjugcMYu9ACEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2900.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I removed the housing from the dune buggy and covered the area where the housing will be mounted with a 3mil layer of plastic. I then cut a hole for the housing so that it again could be re-clamped on to the body as before.</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U3T7zyIQt78/XQBBIYkF4dI/AAAAAAABJAg/plZNiPtM958zvurmecLizaQd33qAX4C4wCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2903.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U3T7zyIQt78/XQBBIYkF4dI/AAAAAAABJAg/plZNiPtM958zvurmecLizaQd33qAX4C4wCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2903.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here the housing is once again clamped into place. The reason for the plastic covering the body is so that I can use my putty mixture once again to get a perfect mating surface created on to the housing that will match the dune buggy body shape and then be able to remove it without causing any damage to the body itself. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-12V6kQbkAtI/XQBBP9uHuZI/AAAAAAABJAk/-4Z4cUY-Vg0Vrm9kiMwBXvAukYKmbA7NQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2905.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-12V6kQbkAtI/XQBBP9uHuZI/AAAAAAABJAk/-4Z4cUY-Vg0Vrm9kiMwBXvAukYKmbA7NQCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2905.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8U1oM8ywpQc/XQBBPhZVxFI/AAAAAAABJAk/uoIZ9KQp6-khE53JKQbUM8LHoJgtkEZPACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2906.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8U1oM8ywpQc/XQBBPhZVxFI/AAAAAAABJAk/uoIZ9KQp6-khE53JKQbUM8LHoJgtkEZPACEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2906.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-woD4tJIhWEI/XQBBje8DRuI/AAAAAAABJA0/zcAQj66Z1kwkVxlhOCQ2brmq4TfNYCwGwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2909.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-woD4tJIhWEI/XQBBje8DRuI/AAAAAAABJA0/zcAQj66Z1kwkVxlhOCQ2brmq4TfNYCwGwCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2909.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In the photos above you can see the putty mixture has been spread on to the housing and plastic covered body where the two part meet. This will give me a perfect copy of the body shape so that there will be no gaps between the body and the tail light housing once it has cured and been sanded smooth for paint. This will give me a perfect fit when I mount the housings once they have been smoothed and painted. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eOtzhQskN2M/XQBB7shdq5I/AAAAAAABJBI/WimL5UWo40A6njWhD3L9H7BYWxpfyWVtACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2914.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eOtzhQskN2M/XQBB7shdq5I/AAAAAAABJBI/WimL5UWo40A6njWhD3L9H7BYWxpfyWVtACEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2914.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I left the putty cure overnight and this morning I was able to remove the housing from the dune buggy with very little effort. As you can see from the photo above it also left very little of the putty on the plastic as well. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_q59ZYnWNuc/XQBBqIJLDwI/AAAAAAABJA4/Yvzj27EVSIA6TooQr0VLJy8rZv5ZL4-cQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2910.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_q59ZYnWNuc/XQBBqIJLDwI/AAAAAAABJA4/Yvzj27EVSIA6TooQr0VLJy8rZv5ZL4-cQCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2910.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This is what the underside of the housing looked like once it had been removed from the dune buggy. The micro-balloon and resin putty had fully hardened and actually tapers down toward the center of the part from the outer perimeter. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bx05bRBIMOw/XQBBq2ez2GI/AAAAAAABJA8/9JWSpyNEGqAUMYxGv0Xhk1QCMF2nCOUDACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2918.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bx05bRBIMOw/XQBBq2ez2GI/AAAAAAABJA8/9JWSpyNEGqAUMYxGv0Xhk1QCMF2nCOUDACEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2918.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I then used additional putty to finish this putty edge taper so that it feathers out thinner as it gets closer to the large opening in the center of the apart. I will let this cure again overnight and then start sanding the part once again on the outside surfaces to get it as smooth as possible for painting. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In this next week I hope to have the housings smoothed and painted and then I can begin final assembly of the tail lights for the dune buggy. I also tallied up all the hours that I 3D printed parts for this project including the housings for the front signal lights. The grand total came up to 101 hours. I'm very happy to have all of the parts turn out as well as they did so I can keep the project moving right along. I'll make sure to let you know how it all turns out in my next post. Good luck with your latest project!</span></div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-12154496172508345082019-06-05T12:18:00.000-07:002019-06-05T15:16:20.210-07:00New LED Dune Buggy Signal Lights Project<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">With all that has been happening here at the shop over the past few weeks I was not even sure I was going to find time to get this post out to all of you. So with the few minutes that I have free while making parts for this project I put everything else aside that needed to be looked at around my house to let you know what has been happening. </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "times new roman"; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-size: large;">The big delay in getting any of this out on the blog has been having to put a new roof on my house along with correcting a good portion of the wiring that either did not work in the house or had no switches to turn things on and off where it was convenient. Plus now I've found out that a very large tree in my front yard needs to be cut down. So finally here is the project. </span></span><b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I had thought that I was done with all the projects that I wanted to do on my dune buggy until I found out that the rear signal lights in the little beast simple were not working or were barely working depending on how you look at it. The front signal lights worked fine and this was the good news. The bad news was that the rear signal lights barely worked on the driver's side and not at all on the passenger's side. On top of this the running lights and brake lights were not as bright as I wanted them. So it was decided to replace all of the signal lights (front and rear) to LED light setups. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-thuMnLTeBgo/XPVNtD10eDI/AAAAAAABIfw/nlqcW4LWk7Y9qSVgVRALNnItStGsxzZlACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_1921.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1025" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-thuMnLTeBgo/XPVNtD10eDI/AAAAAAABIfw/nlqcW4LWk7Y9qSVgVRALNnItStGsxzZlACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_1921.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jkm--RIy9zY/XPVNtLvWpbI/AAAAAAABIf0/nkTeLlIp_305zjepFE4Z9XvoVFmOdkF9QCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_1981.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jkm--RIy9zY/XPVNtLvWpbI/AAAAAAABIf0/nkTeLlIp_305zjepFE4Z9XvoVFmOdkF9QCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_1981.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here are a couple of photos of the signal lights that were on the car when I bought it. The front signal lights as I said were working fine and they looked OK so I was happy with them at that point. The rear signal lights shown in the photo above are the ones that I have issues with. From what I can tell the rear lights are what are used in a trailer and the bulbs in them cannot be replaced. They are a sealed beam setup. This plus the fact that the rear portion of the body tips forward and makes the lights shine upward as well as out to the side of the car. Not a good thing for dim lights in the first place. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ldWiGW2pAvQ/XPVOv0KUmNI/AAAAAAABIgY/gm5xm-fTq7Euejvmv9Xmsjk1Vv4blP5TQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2835.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ldWiGW2pAvQ/XPVOv0KUmNI/AAAAAAABIgY/gm5xm-fTq7Euejvmv9Xmsjk1Vv4blP5TQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2835.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I started with the front lights as this was the simpler of the two sets to replace as I knew that they worked and it was just a matter of finding some nice LED lights that would look good to replace the old ones. I tracked down the new lights that I thought would do the job only to find out that the original hole for the old lights were to small to fit the new lights. So some design work needed to be done to create a housing for the new lights as I did not want to try and cut larger holes into the car body. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cQb5PcLXnl0/XPVPRS1unUI/AAAAAAABIgs/387Cf72DjeE9ovikebD4TQ3MavONDjQWgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2824.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1590" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cQb5PcLXnl0/XPVPRS1unUI/AAAAAAABIgs/387Cf72DjeE9ovikebD4TQ3MavONDjQWgCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2824.JPG" width="636" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LzZXU9DYZ98/XPVPRWbA_dI/AAAAAAABIgo/6TIyiFoQJRclFFFo1IJ133zC5_6PHIMrgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2825.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1192" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LzZXU9DYZ98/XPVPRWbA_dI/AAAAAAABIgo/6TIyiFoQJRclFFFo1IJ133zC5_6PHIMrgCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2825.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This is what I came up with. I designed the new LED light housings so that they would be inserted into the original holes that were already in the body and also use the existing smaller bolt holes for the housing that were already in the body as well. The new 3D printed housings turned out very well as you can see and only needed to be smoothed and painted gloss black to be ready for mounting. I also designed the housings so that the new LED lights would point directly forward for the best visibility while driving.</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_ICeYz5GNqQ/XPVPU9vRL7I/AAAAAAABIgw/dBCCSQomEvUDh4cgfwXE4dj7WsSyXCXuQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2834.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_ICeYz5GNqQ/XPVPU9vRL7I/AAAAAAABIgw/dBCCSQomEvUDh4cgfwXE4dj7WsSyXCXuQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2834.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is the new LED light with the housing, rubber mount for the light, as well as a small foam rubber gasket that is mounted between the body of the dune buggy and the light housing. This little gasket I made using my laser cutter. The foam rubber I had found at my local Walmart store in the craft isle and it is exactly what I needed for this project. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wu_1Bf533OU/XPVRF2YFKBI/AAAAAAABIhI/zOyRpaUzIvElshLPqOssUyjes45PTZK-gCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2840.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wu_1Bf533OU/XPVRF2YFKBI/AAAAAAABIhI/zOyRpaUzIvElshLPqOssUyjes45PTZK-gCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2840.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is what the new LED housing looks like just after I mounted it to the body using 6-32 bolts and lock nuts. Already a big improvement over the old lights. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sdq1wELTna8/XPVRF9z_F5I/AAAAAAABIhM/Z0tsogN93OMpQibKmQjTmVAr6pkhZN86QCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2842.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sdq1wELTna8/XPVRF9z_F5I/AAAAAAABIhM/Z0tsogN93OMpQibKmQjTmVAr6pkhZN86QCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2842.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> The LED light at this point is held in place with a rubber mounting ring that is slid into the housing first. This rubber mount locks itself in place and looks good as well. The LED light and it's wiring were then fed through the housing to the underside of the fender where it was wired up to make it all work properly. A simple task as the wiring is easy to get at. </span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ayb-NThmt5k/XPgVLGj3mUI/AAAAAAABIno/Q5jTn6HUHDgOLjsgRf2266OaCNKt-i6mACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2851.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ayb-NThmt5k/XPgVLGj3mUI/AAAAAAABIno/Q5jTn6HUHDgOLjsgRf2266OaCNKt-i6mACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2851.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's how it all looks with the headlights on.</span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DYRQASuRKNE/XPVSKomCfpI/AAAAAAABIiA/THDI0AkWYjohl-EoZXXvu9QbhaNpUbmPQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2848.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DYRQASuRKNE/XPVSKomCfpI/AAAAAAABIiA/THDI0AkWYjohl-EoZXXvu9QbhaNpUbmPQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2848.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Again another look with the signal light flashing. A much brighter setup than the original light that I had in the dune buggy. So the project is half done at this point. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ANyJiT9goPA/XPVUqalrK4I/AAAAAAABIic/eYTD6PIFphoP52vmmPZDz2n0oV_FAHvcACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2827.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ANyJiT9goPA/XPVUqalrK4I/AAAAAAABIic/eYTD6PIFphoP52vmmPZDz2n0oV_FAHvcACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2827.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">To get an idea of what was needed for the rear tail lights I started simply by laying out a foam core box that fit up to the tail end of the dune buggy. I know it looks crude at this point but it gave me the information that I needed to work out the design for the new rear LED tail lights. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The foam core box layout gave me the dimensions of all the sides of the housing for the new LED lights. Each side was a different shape and dimension and this was the simplest way to figure all of that out short of being able to 3D scan the rear end of the dune buggy. Something that would have been nice to use but not in my budget to own. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b03Sy2Q09pQ/XPVVQBu8z7I/AAAAAAABIik/GQomSCm763gSt9Bk8X-y8Bs-qQ-WqHerACLcBGAs/s1600/Mustang%2BLight.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="663" data-original-width="755" height="562" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b03Sy2Q09pQ/XPVVQBu8z7I/AAAAAAABIik/GQomSCm763gSt9Bk8X-y8Bs-qQ-WqHerACLcBGAs/s640/Mustang%2BLight.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The new tail lights that will be installed into my dune buggy are for a 1965 Mustang. I really like the looks of the lights and an LED insert was available which made the setup an easy choice for this project. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">After working with my brother who owns an auto body shop we tracked down the problem to the original tail lights. To put it simply the dune buggy had a bad ground or at the very least a poor ground. To solve this issue I ran a test wire directly from the negative side of the battery to the new lights. I tested this setup and turned on lights, stepped on brakes, and fired up signal lights and it all worked perfectly! So that is the plan of action. I will run a new ground wire to the tail end of the dune buggy to make everything work the way it should. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-baPbJyr4a6I/XPVWf_0mHhI/AAAAAAABIi0/GVfvvGoaPTokZLgE2tD4YLwveGAv0_cygCLcBGAs/s1600/Mustang%2BLED%2BLight%2B4.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="867" data-original-width="940" height="590" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-baPbJyr4a6I/XPVWf_0mHhI/AAAAAAABIi0/GVfvvGoaPTokZLgE2tD4YLwveGAv0_cygCLcBGAs/s640/Mustang%2BLED%2BLight%2B4.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">To get the tail lights pointed in the right direction I have designed a new housing (shown above) for the lights that will be mounted to the body. A much smoother design from the foam core box to be sure. This was a trick in itself as the housing could not be mounted to the body with the light already installed into it. Or the light could not be installed into the housing already mounted to the dune buggy. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4h_8Biy6fHQ/XPabbD8LibI/AAAAAAABIkE/P5NdNkhjdy8WPttWAlsePuGObDCJ43arwCLcBGAs/s1600/Tail%2BLight%2BParts.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1121" data-original-width="1600" height="448" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4h_8Biy6fHQ/XPabbD8LibI/AAAAAAABIkE/P5NdNkhjdy8WPttWAlsePuGObDCJ43arwCLcBGAs/s640/Tail%2BLight%2BParts.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />T</span><span style="font-size: large;">o solve this problem I split up the assembly so that the tail lights could be mounted as shown in the image above. The Light Cowling is first attached to the Dune Buggy rear end using four small nuts and bolts. Then the Light Bucket is attached to the front of the Cowling Face Plate. The LED Assembly and Bezel are next and they are attached to the front of the Light Bucket. Once this is done the Cowling Face Plate is attached to the Light Cowling using two small nuts and bolts on each side of Light Cowling. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">All that is needed after this has been accomplished is to hook up the wiring and I will have new LED tail lights on the rear of the dune buggy. At that point I will be able to breath a sigh of relief knowing that I will be seen when I want to drive the dune buggy and make a turn or stop and not have the worry so much about having an accident because of poor lighting.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I have a bunch of 3D printing to get at for this project yet so I will close for now but will post more about my progress once I get a bit farther along with all that needs to be done. </span></div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-62795220717614911632019-05-22T13:08:00.000-07:002019-05-22T13:08:49.548-07:001/6th Scale 3D Printed 1927 Bugatti Type 35 Model Project Part 5<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">I've spent at least a couple of hundred hours these past few weeks in the designing of this Bugatti Type 35 model and am finally getting to making parts for it on my 3D printer!</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5GvSatU-UFw/XOV7BkE805I/AAAAAAABIS8/0HY8EU977SM8mP35ghezUrMcsk6DvYL2wCLcBGAs/s1600/Bugatti%2B1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="783" data-original-width="1173" height="425" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5GvSatU-UFw/XOV7BkE805I/AAAAAAABIS8/0HY8EU977SM8mP35ghezUrMcsk6DvYL2wCLcBGAs/s640/Bugatti%2B1.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3RHtNum42Po/XOV7PQmDPfI/AAAAAAABITE/syZ7O7E0FBkc5Q3HnXyomaruqzQKk3k5gCLcBGAs/s1600/Bugatti%2B2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="796" data-original-width="1258" height="404" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3RHtNum42Po/XOV7PQmDPfI/AAAAAAABITE/syZ7O7E0FBkc5Q3HnXyomaruqzQKk3k5gCLcBGAs/s640/Bugatti%2B2.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3-B2SN99bPg/XOV7XpHD_NI/AAAAAAABITM/8_X4vdmoeJcDJ6Fb3tI0BIOTmHibS--KgCLcBGAs/s1600/Bugatti%2B3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1600" height="374" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3-B2SN99bPg/XOV7XpHD_NI/AAAAAAABITM/8_X4vdmoeJcDJ6Fb3tI0BIOTmHibS--KgCLcBGAs/s640/Bugatti%2B3.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I am also very pleased with the images shown above that I created using Fusion 360 CAD software. Looks pretty much like the real car so that is a good start anyway as far as getting a model of the car built that looks as correct as possible. At least as correct as I can make it without having the engineering drawings to make it absolutely perfect. </span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/---TGsg6oNMg/XOV8M81v_HI/AAAAAAABIT4/J2TLCYZyY1kY0AOjttWZ7NwDSdN1RoHTwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2779.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1333" data-original-width="1600" height="532" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/---TGsg6oNMg/XOV8M81v_HI/AAAAAAABIT4/J2TLCYZyY1kY0AOjttWZ7NwDSdN1RoHTwCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2779.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Shown above are the components that are needed to make up the frame along with the floor and lower section of the engine compartment. The four long pieces at the top of the photo are the rails for the frame. I needed to each of the two rails in two sections as my 3D printer could not make them all in one piece without making the entire model in a smaller scale. Not something I wanted to do from the start. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VDmbq_kJ0kE/XOV87MdtmJI/AAAAAAABIUQ/Wmzzbt5F3fAH6Ml_Jb0Mq4muO6MnIg-NACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2780.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1246" data-original-width="1600" height="498" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VDmbq_kJ0kE/XOV87MdtmJI/AAAAAAABIUQ/Wmzzbt5F3fAH6Ml_Jb0Mq4muO6MnIg-NACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2780.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is the floor of the car with the center hump for the driveshaft and the mounting holes for the seat supports. I was happy that this part turned out so well as it will be one of the main features to see in the model once it has been completely assembled. The larger hole in the floor will be needed to mount the dual mufflers in the model. All of these holes will be covered up by the seats so they will not be seen again after assembly.</span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-21JMsmNMMQo/XOV9t38_GGI/AAAAAAABIUc/Vx7mR8FWWS4dGz-VZIj8PpAiCmLh42EIgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2791.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1272" data-original-width="1600" height="508" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-21JMsmNMMQo/XOV9t38_GGI/AAAAAAABIUc/Vx7mR8FWWS4dGz-VZIj8PpAiCmLh42EIgCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2791.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here the frame and floor have been test fit together to make sure everything lines up correctly. The panel setting next to the frame is the underside view of the engine compartment. The model's engine compartment will not have the capability to be opened up so I did not bother with trying to design the engine for it. The underside of the engine compartment had to be simplified to fill the space where the engine would be along with a mounting area for the dual exhaust. This part will be installed on to the frame once it has been glued together. </span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6M07Y3N93DM/XOWAJEJEJTI/AAAAAAABIU0/QkJEX-23PeYcdZFGxBtK5vGCc0GiDy-QACLcBGAs/s1600/Frame%2B2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="854" data-original-width="1192" height="458" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6M07Y3N93DM/XOWAJEJEJTI/AAAAAAABIU0/QkJEX-23PeYcdZFGxBtK5vGCc0GiDy-QACLcBGAs/s640/Frame%2B2.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is another look at what the frame will look like once the axles and wheels have been add to the build. Total time to 3D print the parts I have shown here came to around 79 hours. This seems like a lot but the best I can estimate to 3D print the entire model will be right around 200 to 300 hours or more. Then add in another 200 hours or so for the design work and your now looking at a 400 to 500 hour build. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> It all takes time both on and off of the computer. Hopefully in the coming weeks I will be able to get more 3D printing done on this 24" long Bugatti model. It should be a nice display piece when I get it all put together. </span></div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-13705539569223451592019-05-13T13:54:00.000-07:002019-05-13T13:54:33.145-07:00The Indian Motorcycle Logo Sign Project Part One<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">Way back when I started this blog I put out a post about something I had created in Blender 3D software. It was of the Indian motorcycle logo sign. I thought after all these years that now was the time to actually make the sign I only dreamt about all those years ago.</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BWKGd2Ga9uQ/XNnSq8jsZKI/AAAAAAABINU/Pt6bEQrlluwQWE1T_Su6HR460s-lkf4LwCLcBGAs/s1600/Indian%2BHead%2BLogo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="633" data-original-width="1600" height="252" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BWKGd2Ga9uQ/XNnSq8jsZKI/AAAAAAABINU/Pt6bEQrlluwQWE1T_Su6HR460s-lkf4LwCLcBGAs/s640/Indian%2BHead%2BLogo.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This is a copy of the image that I had used to make my Blender 3D creation way back in 2011. I wanted to make a very large sign at the time but never got around to either finding the time or the money or the space to build it or display it properly. So I settled for the Blender 3D version.</span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rqs9F7Vsg5k/XNnSrtQUDTI/AAAAAAABINc/KnLPuNpeRacbClKW7eEgPOgTUjnLKuCfQCLcBGAs/s1600/Indian%2BLogo1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="792" data-original-width="1056" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rqs9F7Vsg5k/XNnSrtQUDTI/AAAAAAABINc/KnLPuNpeRacbClKW7eEgPOgTUjnLKuCfQCLcBGAs/s640/Indian%2BLogo1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is my Blender version of the sign and I am still very proud of what I created. It would make an impressive sign in chrome plated steel on a wooden base as you see here but it probably would be very difficult to make as well as expensive on top of it all. I simply do not have that type of talent when it comes to shaping metal so I never attempted to make it this way. </span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CKMjU8z2sWE/XNnSrtvhJlI/AAAAAAABINg/ujaxjp5AcegAi2s9T7DnjsYLZcVuwH2_ACLcBGAs/s1600/Indian%2BLogo%2BSign.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="805" data-original-width="1600" height="322" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CKMjU8z2sWE/XNnSrtvhJlI/AAAAAAABINg/ujaxjp5AcegAi2s9T7DnjsYLZcVuwH2_ACLcBGAs/s640/Indian%2BLogo%2BSign.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">With this project in mind I recreated the sign as you see it here using Fusion 360 CAD software. Instead of chrome plated steel I thought I would try and make the sign smaller and the intricate parts by 3D printing them on my 3D printer. The sign would be 16.5" x 8.5". I would make it bigger but my 3D printer would not be able to make the Indian head perimeter that large. As you can see from the image above the perimeter is all one piece so that is the issue with making it on my 3D printer.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In the image above I used a wooden base which looks very nice and being smaller in size would not be a big issue with trying to hang I on a wall when it is completed. It will be easy enough to cut a piece of wood to that size and varnish it. The real trick is how to attach all of the pieces to make up the sign once the wood has been cut and how to locate all the piece in the correct orientation that you see in the image. Something that I will have to work out further before I actually start making parts.</span> </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U7b8OSAl230/XNnSrcqLguI/AAAAAAABINY/v6A-KyZFVvU0R_sjxAgU0XZWL1wvwVkhACLcBGAs/s1600/Indian%2BLogo%2BSign%2B2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="778" data-original-width="1482" height="334" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U7b8OSAl230/XNnSrcqLguI/AAAAAAABINY/v6A-KyZFVvU0R_sjxAgU0XZWL1wvwVkhACLcBGAs/s640/Indian%2BLogo%2BSign%2B2.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I also thought about having a gloss black base instead of a wooden one. But after comparing the two images that I have here I am leaning more toward the wooden display due to cost as well as the over all look of the sign. I think the wood looks a bit warmer than the all gloss black display. Both have their merits so it is something else that I will have to consider further on this project. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cdjjrDPRdQI/XNnSqZnDO0I/AAAAAAABINM/BaaWoG2mnrMC4nqj7NJwrqiWSFRRdxKjgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2767.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1263" data-original-width="1600" height="504" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cdjjrDPRdQI/XNnSqZnDO0I/AAAAAAABINM/BaaWoG2mnrMC4nqj7NJwrqiWSFRRdxKjgCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2767.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I did manage to track down some very nice gloss brass colored paint today. I took one of my reject parts from another project and painted it to see how it would turn out. As you can see from the photo above it sure looks like brass to me. So to paint all of the parts for the sign with this paint has got my vote to continue on with this project so far. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">All of the parts for the sign would be sanded smooth so that the finish would be even better than the un-sanded part that you see above. In the mean time I will start tracking down the wood that I want to possibly use for sign as well as the gloss black acrylic. The plus side to the acrylic base it that there is no need to sand or varnish this part for the sign. It would save time but not sure if it will keep the cost down just yet. Will have to do my homework on all of this before I decide my next plan of attack for this project. So far it looks promising though just the same. Stay tuned for more on this project in the coming weeks. </span></div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-21357696647905963912019-05-06T09:15:00.000-07:002019-05-06T09:18:55.818-07:00Dune Buggy Wind Deflectors Project Is Completed!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">Another banner week here at the workshop with putting the finishing touches to the dune buggy wind deflectors project upgrade and completion. No major issues with the changes that I had made to make the deflectors stronger and smoothing everything out to give all the parts a nice glossy coat of black paint.</span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9ywZHBgR0Ec/XM4B0Q3B3MI/AAAAAAABICw/rmpo9MNOjhAoktMpTSI8U2bS-mKJuZI7gCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2742.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9ywZHBgR0Ec/XM4B0Q3B3MI/AAAAAAABICw/rmpo9MNOjhAoktMpTSI8U2bS-mKJuZI7gCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2742.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">As before with my earlier version of the wind deflectors the new upgrades that I had made did not detract from the look that I was going for with the design. In the photo above the deflectors are pretty much invisible. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The mounts now are much stronger because of the internal brass rods that I installed into them and they are thicker as well. I had originally thought that I would paint the mounts red but with them being glass black they blend in very well with the rest of the cars interior roll bar and seats. </span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aL6cfVY9HYo/XMsXVsKIW3I/AAAAAAABIAE/fLPaLtRbslo8mIbp2TuqTPR_W_-5pVMPQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2723.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aL6cfVY9HYo/XMsXVsKIW3I/AAAAAAABIAE/fLPaLtRbslo8mIbp2TuqTPR_W_-5pVMPQCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2723.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's a good look at the lower mount for the driver's side of the dune buggy. I am happy that I took the time to smooth the 3D printed parts out and primed and painted them. The 3D printed parts have a 60% infill so they are very solid and should hold up very well. The fact that I painted the parts also will protect them from being in the sun as unpainted 3D printed parts will fade over time. So again it was worth the effort. </span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-htMDeMbsDik/XMsYGPqSzjI/AAAAAAABIAg/7yc5gpGVEXMfdcPBiauwfHfkBfDP6u8lQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2724.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-htMDeMbsDik/XMsYGPqSzjI/AAAAAAABIAg/7yc5gpGVEXMfdcPBiauwfHfkBfDP6u8lQCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2724.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">When I first tested the original mounts I had high winds (28 mph) to deal with and both of the lower mounts had failed and needed to be removed from the dune buggy. I was driving 55-60 mph and then add another 28 mph and now we're talking 88 mph winds on the deflectors. I am surprised that they even stayed on the car at that point. So with the lower mounts failing and having to be redesigned I decided to also upgrade the upper mounts as well. This only made sense to me as now to beef up the design on all of the mounts. The upper mount pictured above now matches the lower mount and is just as strong. </span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RKF6zrDDTw8/XMsYIWlMikI/AAAAAAABIAk/AMLM-_DfBlUsOcjQccOsI6bYBO6JzXHUQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2725.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RKF6zrDDTw8/XMsYIWlMikI/AAAAAAABIAk/AMLM-_DfBlUsOcjQccOsI6bYBO6JzXHUQCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2725.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The maximum that I could angle the deflectors outward comes to right around 40 degrees. To get a larger angle on the deflector I would have had to move the deflector farther out from the windshield. This in turn would have made a larger gap between the windshield and the deflector. Something I did not want to do with the design. As of right now the deflector is only around an inch away from the windshield. I think it will do the job nicely. </span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-T9gchoUwDyk/XM4B3HaNV6I/AAAAAAABIC0/amH2IToW-v0kpqwoD-s2Qia6cJYkIVYpQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2745.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-T9gchoUwDyk/XM4B3HaNV6I/AAAAAAABIC0/amH2IToW-v0kpqwoD-s2Qia6cJYkIVYpQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2745.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">From any angle the dune buggy is a looker so the wind deflectors will only add just a little more to the looks of the car and a lot more to the comfort of driving it down the road. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I was fortunate enough today to have the enough bright sunshine, no gale force winds or low temperatures to contend with so I was able to finally put my seal of approval on the new wind deflectors. The wind that I did have while driving down the road was no longer hitting me in the face but rather was directed around me and was now coming from the rear. Which is normal for a convertible. Something I remembered from years ago when I drove another small convertible that I had owned. Good memories renewed with my little test drive. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The wind deflector modifications that I had made look to be the right solution to the design as there is little if any vibration with the deflectors now while driving down the road. The mounts feel more solid as well so the deflectors should serve me well in the coming years of cruising. Plus the fact that the cost to put the wind deflectors together was half the cost of buying ready made ones. ($150 instead of $300) So smiles all around for this addition to the little car. 😁</span><br />
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-66422954411674024102019-05-01T08:01:00.000-07:002019-05-01T08:01:04.906-07:001/6th Scale 3D Printed 1927 Bugatti Type 35 Model Project Part 4<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">Several weeks ago and a lot of hours work have passed since I have posted about my 1/6th scale Bugatti Type 35 model that I have been working on. Happily with everything else that has shown up in the workshop that I needed and or wanted to work on I have managed to still make some nice progress on the CAD model that will be needed for this 3D printed model. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S7Rsv5aIwEY/XMmt2NMnaoI/AAAAAAABH64/d5K60crspPc6LrJpa4tF-N96XlurspHJgCLcBGAs/s1600/Bugatti%2B1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="783" data-original-width="1173" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S7Rsv5aIwEY/XMmt2NMnaoI/AAAAAAABH64/d5K60crspPc6LrJpa4tF-N96XlurspHJgCLcBGAs/s640/Bugatti%2B1.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">It all boils down to the little details that I want to put into the 1/6th scale model of this famous race car that has taken a very long time to create. I know that there will be some Bugatti experts rolling their eyes at my efforts to recreate this model car. I expect that will happen but I also expect that the majority of readers of my blog will be happy with my efforts and hopefully appreciate what I have managed or at least tried to create so far just in Fusion 360. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N44gVElM-fQ/XMmt2JK3xqI/AAAAAAABH68/6iDrf6n3Xp83laZtLDvCkjEa78C7bMv_QCLcBGAs/s1600/Bugatti%2B2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="796" data-original-width="1258" height="404" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N44gVElM-fQ/XMmt2JK3xqI/AAAAAAABH68/6iDrf6n3Xp83laZtLDvCkjEa78C7bMv_QCLcBGAs/s640/Bugatti%2B2.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I have lost count of the number of hours that I have in the CAD model so far. I suspect that it is in excess of 200 hours or so. Or at least it will be by the time I call the design work complete and I can get on with actually 3D printing the model and physically putting it all together. I just did not want anyone thinking that I had given up on this project. In the image above you can see that there is still work to be done on the interior of the car. Gauges are most noticeably missing in the image along with various parts that will be mounted to the floor of the model.</span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k2zUoXQ15pg/XMmt2Du-tsI/AAAAAAABH7A/Hs0qoEk9OGEeZ7t4aEBgmEbcFPB_U0V_wCLcBGAs/s1600/Bugatti%2B3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1600" height="374" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k2zUoXQ15pg/XMmt2Du-tsI/AAAAAAABH7A/Hs0qoEk9OGEeZ7t4aEBgmEbcFPB_U0V_wCLcBGAs/s640/Bugatti%2B3.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The images that you see here were all created using Fusion 360 CAD software. I could not have done a better job of showing off the model car if I would had created the same image using Blender 3D as I usually do. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2abwDL9W5H0/XMmt2x0rkzI/AAAAAAABH7E/dokFxeuqm00FY6IEl2FfGA0wyXoMBP2tACLcBGAs/s1600/Bugatti%2B4.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="914" data-original-width="1462" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2abwDL9W5H0/XMmt2x0rkzI/AAAAAAABH7E/dokFxeuqm00FY6IEl2FfGA0wyXoMBP2tACLcBGAs/s640/Bugatti%2B4.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">As I stated earlier there is still a lot of work that needs to be done in Fusion 360 to bring this model to completion. Once I have the interior completed I will have to go through the entire model to make sure that it will be able to be assembled as you see it here. To put it simply, like any other model that is made and put together I have to make sure that Tab "A" will fit into Slot "B" every time. I do not want to have a part that takes 20+ hours to 3D print not fit correctly and have to be remade to make it all work. It this was the case it would be a lot of wasted time and effort. Not a good thing to happen with such a large model.</span> </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MFW0THBUJVs/XMmx6AQ99HI/AAAAAAABH7Y/jWOf3rNUC-se1BcobqZNNwZukNzfCPxzQCLcBGAs/s1600/Bugatti%2B5.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="859" data-original-width="1496" height="366" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MFW0THBUJVs/XMmx6AQ99HI/AAAAAAABH7Y/jWOf3rNUC-se1BcobqZNNwZukNzfCPxzQCLcBGAs/s640/Bugatti%2B5.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In the image of the model above you can see what I have managed to put together on the underside of the car. As far as the engine goes I will make a simplified version of the underside and include the modeling of the exhaust that would be in the car. The model will not have the capability to open up the front hood to look at the engine so this save me a lot of work in this process. But it will have the full suspension front and rear along with the fuel tank that I thought would be a nice touch.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">When completed the model will be 24.4 inches long, 9.5 inches wide and 7.7 inches tall. At that size the model should be quite impressive. So as you can see I want to get as much detail in the model as possible and try and make it as accurate as I can. Again a long process that should pay off in the end when I have the model completed. Hopefully in the next post about this project I will have started 3D printing some of the main components for the model. So as usual thanks for checking out my progress so far and I will be sure to keep you up to date. </span></div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-48422357469270717662019-04-24T09:50:00.000-07:002019-04-24T09:50:34.307-07:00Dune Buggy Wind Deflectors Project Testing.... Part Three<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">Up until last weekend I thought that this project had been one of the easier projects that I have worked on in a while. I had to correct myself when I tested the new wind deflectors on the dune buggy. </span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zv7IQWO8mSI/XLnj9DhGcxI/AAAAAAABHzE/4AASTVRxnFIrDu9acDPbaZwTf7q7NxyKACLcBGAs/s1600/Deflector%2B4.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="982" data-original-width="1590" height="394" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zv7IQWO8mSI/XLnj9DhGcxI/AAAAAAABHzE/4AASTVRxnFIrDu9acDPbaZwTf7q7NxyKACLcBGAs/s640/Deflector%2B4.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I took this picture of the dune buggy in my garage to show off the new wind deflectors. Hard to believe that they are even on the car by looking at this photo, but they are there. Actually kind of nice that they blend in so well with the rest of the car.</span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jh8SUMIjVDQ/XLnkV1PFThI/AAAAAAABHzk/4BkPIkPMCbgtkDkhu7jcQbAjT7_oM6N2gCEwYBhgL/s1600/Deflector%2B8.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="931" data-original-width="1393" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jh8SUMIjVDQ/XLnkV1PFThI/AAAAAAABHzk/4BkPIkPMCbgtkDkhu7jcQbAjT7_oM6N2gCEwYBhgL/s640/Deflector%2B8.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This is what the deflectors look like with the mounting hardware installed on them. This part of the project went very well as there were no issues in getting the 3D printed parts mounted to the polycarbonate pieces that make up the deflectors. The polycarbonate by the way is .21 of an inch thick and is very strong and stiff. I think they will do the job very well.</span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W-hoom_XDBY/XLnkT9hdSLI/AAAAAAABHzg/ngY5xIeR6LIcX-3TripTiD3Gps6XOtGYgCEwYBhgL/s1600/Deflector%2B9.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1054" height="490" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W-hoom_XDBY/XLnkT9hdSLI/AAAAAAABHzg/ngY5xIeR6LIcX-3TripTiD3Gps6XOtGYgCEwYBhgL/s640/Deflector%2B9.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's a close-up view of one of the mounts for the deflectors. I 3D printed the parts with a 60% infill which again is very strong and solid. The upper portion and bottom portion of the mount have teeth that mate to one another so that the assembly will not rotate when it is mounted to the dune buggy. This gives the assembly also the capability to be able to change the angle at which the deflectors are installed on the car. Something that can be done without completely taking them off of the dune buggy so that is another plus in the design. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">It took around 20 hours to 3D printe the mounts for the deflectors. After sanding and painting these parts the total time came up to 22 hours. Then cutting out the polycarbonate, drilling holes and sanding edges smooth took anothe hour or so. Total maybe 24 hours after you include assembly. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is a much better view of the wind deflector mounted on the driver's side of the dune buggy. I was concerned when I designed the deflector mounts that the deflector itself would be spaced to far out from the windshield frame. I am happy to see that this is not the case. The gap between the deflectors and the windshield frame is roughly one inch. Much tighter than I had imagined it would be. The fact that the deflectors blend in so well with the rest of the car hides this gap also.</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XG2CZPh7W6M/XLnj_OGvuRI/AAAAAAABHzQ/J1mGdk08U24JJsyFmaLerqIjwqSHUmzKQCEwYBhgL/s1600/Deflector%2B5.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="997" data-original-width="1361" height="468" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XG2CZPh7W6M/XLnj_OGvuRI/AAAAAAABHzQ/J1mGdk08U24JJsyFmaLerqIjwqSHUmzKQCEwYBhgL/s640/Deflector%2B5.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This is a good view of the upper mount for the wind deflector. With all of the black parts that are in the car the mounts again blend in very nicely. </span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-afWlT9ciIp0/XLnjxLWWHwI/AAAAAAABHzU/H4dzg4xRqvUrpLpdMCofn1Hji_N7_YfVACEwYBhgL/s1600/Deflector%2B6.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="813" data-original-width="687" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-afWlT9ciIp0/XLnjxLWWHwI/AAAAAAABHzU/H4dzg4xRqvUrpLpdMCofn1Hji_N7_YfVACEwYBhgL/s640/Deflector%2B6.png" width="540" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I had to put the roof on the dune buggy to make sure that I did not have the wind deflectors up to high. The installation on the car I had figured out ahead of time as the aluminum mounts needed to be installed first. I mounted the upper one first, then placed the wind deflector on to the mount with a mounting bolt. This showed me exactly where the lower aluminum mount needed to be placed. I placed a piece of tape on to the windshield frame where I thought the lower mounts should be installed and removed the wind deflector. I thought it would take me several tries to get the lower mount to line up correctly but I got it set-up after only a couple tries. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Once I had the aluminum mounts lined up where they needed to be I was able to fully tighten them down and mount the wind deflector to them. With the deflector mounted to the aluminum mounts it is not possible to adjust the aluminum mounts afterwards as the bolts are covered by the wind deflectors. It looked like it was going to be a difficult task to work this all out but once I had gotten the driver's wind deflector installed the passenger's side went on after only one attempt. </span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xrFz_rizEQI/XLnjabkaM9I/AAAAAAABHy4/g1Qlizr92Gc9xbpF8ByNhaae2lU6B79TwCEwYBhgL/s1600/Deflector%2B3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="690" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xrFz_rizEQI/XLnjabkaM9I/AAAAAAABHy4/g1Qlizr92Gc9xbpF8ByNhaae2lU6B79TwCEwYBhgL/s640/Deflector%2B3.png" width="450" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In the photo above you can see the passenger's side wind deflector already mounted. To get it in exactly the same position as I had mounted the driver's side I took a piece of tape and marked the spacing between the upper roof mount and the upper wind deflector mount on the driver's side. This I then transferred over to the passenger's side so that I had both deflectors perfectly matched as far as there positioning goes. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Up until this point in the project I had not been able to take the dune buggy out and do a test run with the new deflectors to see if my design would work properly. They did and they didn't to put it simply. The new deflectors made a nice difference in driving the car until I had encountered winds last weekend that were gusting to 28 mph. Not a good thing even if I was not testing the new wind deflectors. I was driving around 55-60 mph. So factor in a 28 mph wind gust to that speed and now you have as much as 88 mph winds hitting the deflectors. </span><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6HXW6SYlyHQ/XMCOMoxRVZI/AAAAAAABH1o/mXK57_nn79ARe81ItLyG0ymimp_X8I0qgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2694.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6HXW6SYlyHQ/XMCOMoxRVZI/AAAAAAABH1o/mXK57_nn79ARe81ItLyG0ymimp_X8I0qgCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2694.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This was the end result of such high winds. The lower mount on the passenger side of the car broke and the drivers side cracked. I simply had not thought about dealing with high winds. Back to the drawing board.</span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a1VxfNz0QeQ/XMCOt5wxHSI/AAAAAAABH1w/FXzyyAAUWJUNu7rVe33wY-yR9lS2RwBGQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2696.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a1VxfNz0QeQ/XMCOt5wxHSI/AAAAAAABH1w/FXzyyAAUWJUNu7rVe33wY-yR9lS2RwBGQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2696.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">To correct the problem with the lower mounts I beefed up the design as you can see from the image above. The problem with the original mount was that the mounting surface was too thin. I doubled up the thickness to take care of that issue.</span><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bEHko7gO4A4/XMCPXo4WwYI/AAAAAAABH2U/SHLB_xXpGzUh-vbgsV5NP2EOHrhne0saACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2699.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bEHko7gO4A4/XMCPXo4WwYI/AAAAAAABH2U/SHLB_xXpGzUh-vbgsV5NP2EOHrhne0saACEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2699.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Also with the new design I installed holes in the parts that will have brass rods inserted into them to add additional strength. This will stiffen the mount up further so it will have a better chance of withstanding the winds that I had encountered on my first test run. </span><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XVcaALkc-G4/XMCQFzRUJ3I/AAAAAAABH20/bLOJJsF2ZIE4diKd5f-l3atgWhEzTeuBACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2703.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XVcaALkc-G4/XMCQFzRUJ3I/AAAAAAABH20/bLOJJsF2ZIE4diKd5f-l3atgWhEzTeuBACEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2703.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here the brass rods have been partially inserted into one of the mounts. Once the rods are fully inserted into the part they will be epoxied into place and the outer opening closed up so the brass rods can never be removed. Not that I would want to do that. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I will sand the new mounts down and prep them again for paint then do another test run hopefully on a less windy day. The high wind gust may have turned out to be a good thing that happened so that the wind deflectors will be stronger and safer in the long run. I think this new design should be exactly what I will need to put the finishing touches to the wind deflector project. I'll let you know after I get the new parts installed on to the dune buggy and get to test them once more. Keep your fingers crossed.</span></div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-54905048981466902662019-04-16T09:55:00.000-07:002019-04-16T09:55:29.621-07:00Dune Buggy Wind Deflectors Project Part Two<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">Last week I had made some nice progress with this project and I have been lucky so far again this week with what I have managed to get put together. </span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2fh9keLDtfs/XLX-JGdonaI/AAAAAAABHt0/f4-NklYT-dk3OiABPuOU-6eFXNAdTrldgCLcBGAs/s1600/Wind%2BDeflector%2B8.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="953" data-original-width="727" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2fh9keLDtfs/XLX-JGdonaI/AAAAAAABHt0/f4-NklYT-dk3OiABPuOU-6eFXNAdTrldgCLcBGAs/s640/Wind%2BDeflector%2B8.png" width="488" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Some changes along the way needed to be done with the design simply because of the hardware that was available for the project that needed to be found and one or two errors on my part also.</span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fxdoWdT-pNE/XLX5jjjnJHI/AAAAAAABHsY/bXW5T0rbMJEXX2nowpGVxLtBvw7AC_krgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2636.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fxdoWdT-pNE/XLX5jjjnJHI/AAAAAAABHsY/bXW5T0rbMJEXX2nowpGVxLtBvw7AC_krgCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2636.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Pictured above are the mounts for the right side of the dune buggy wind deflector. The upper and lower mounts look great but I can not say the same for one of the two inner mounts. As you can see one has a large hole and the other a small hole. I had missed this fact while designing the parts in Fusion 360. Both of the inner parts needed a large hole to accommodate the 10mm bolt the holds these assemblies to the aluminum mounts. So the upper middle mount needed to be reprinted, and painted in primer again for both sides of the deflector assemblies. Another five hours of 3D printing not counting the sanding of the parts and priming once again. </span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cHqKqxSGTFE/XLX5FfdlEzI/AAAAAAABHsA/Lc5F8OLrxo0mik-ivMalF7keyeCjQE3OgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2634.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cHqKqxSGTFE/XLX5FfdlEzI/AAAAAAABHsA/Lc5F8OLrxo0mik-ivMalF7keyeCjQE3OgCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2634.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This past week the polycarbonate plastic that I needed for the wind deflectors showed up in the mail. I had contacted my local maker space and thought that it might be possible to have these parts cut out on the laser cutter that they have. No such luck. Polycarbonate is not something that should be cut on a laser cutter. We tried before we found this out as the laser only would make the plastic turn yellow because of the heat along with some other issues that would not make it safe to do so in the first place. So back to the workshop I set out to cutting the parts on my bandsaw. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I did have the foresight to buy a new bandsaw blade to do the job and was rewarded with the pieces that you see pictured above. The bandsaw blade had 14 teeth per inch and cut through the polycarbonate like a hot knife through butter. I took my time with the cutting and was very pleased with the end results. Also in the photo above you can see the holes for the mounts already drilled. Another easy task using my drill press. </span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MUe93N9epqI/XLX4A9wDTtI/AAAAAAABHrg/ybnDsADrwtgVD_avZfOXWFNq3ek_CMhwgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2628.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MUe93N9epqI/XLX4A9wDTtI/AAAAAAABHrg/ybnDsADrwtgVD_avZfOXWFNq3ek_CMhwgCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2628.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is one of the wind deflectors set up to have the second set of holes drilled into the polycarbonate plastic. I took two of the mounts that will be installed on to the deflector and carefully drilled a 1/4" hole through the mounts as a guide and then into the polycarbonate plastic. Once I had gotten that far I slid a bolt into each mount so that the next holes that needed to be drilled would match up perfectly with the mount and the first holes drilled. Not a difficult task. I just had to take my time and not rush the process. </span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-h9hje3wPFr4/XLX6kR-v3dI/AAAAAAABHs8/Cv-5z-qgVrw7hMJoyygUgXHALNcv8M_NgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2653.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-h9hje3wPFr4/XLX6kR-v3dI/AAAAAAABHs8/Cv-5z-qgVrw7hMJoyygUgXHALNcv8M_NgCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2653.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Once I had the four holes drilled into each of the deflectors my next task was to sand the edges smooth with sand paper. I started with 120 grit, then on to 400, then 600, and lastly with 800 grit. This made the edges very smooth to the touch and cleared the edges very well. To finish this part of the project I took a small butane torch and slowly heated up the edges to bring a nice clear finish back to the edges. Again not a difficult task to do but one that needed to be done slowly so as to not damage the edges in the process. This final step took less than ten minutes and as you can see the deflectors are ready at this point to be installed. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">After having 3D printed the mounting hardware for the deflectors I sanded each part smooth and then painted them with primer. When I was happy with how the primer turned out I was able to finally paint the parts a nice gloss black. I purposely assembled the two mating parts together when I primed and painted them. I did this so that I could keep paint out of the toothed surfaces on the parts that keep them locked into position when they are mounted on the dune buggy. I was afraid that if I had painted these surfaces that they would not fit as nicely as what you see here. </span> </div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pMqI0XbuXss/XLX5wn4Gl_I/AAAAAAABHsc/RPExH4zExVgY-dvOV0KRp00x0Z7Q2iHPQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2639.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1356" data-original-width="1600" height="542" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pMqI0XbuXss/XLX5wn4Gl_I/AAAAAAABHsc/RPExH4zExVgY-dvOV0KRp00x0Z7Q2iHPQCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2639.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The picture shown above is one of the aluminum mirror mounts that are needed for the wind deflectors. This mounts to the windshield frame first and then the 3D printed parts are mounted to it to hold the wind deflector in place when the assembly is completed. The 3D printed parts were printed with a 60% infill to make them strong enough for the job. I think this amount of infill will do really nicely and should hold up very well. I also think you would have to smack these parts with a hammer to break them so they should do the job. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The hole in the center of the aluminum mount is a 10mm in diameter with a fine thread. It took some doing in order to find the right bolt for this portion of the assembly. I needed the right size bolt of course but I also wanted something that fit the look of the windshield and the wind deflectors. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1QCGq4j8syY/XLYFYZc3IgI/AAAAAAABHuA/kqE2izGe3xkLO19v2rcFhA_hJ5HQPN-wgCLcBGAs/s1600/Updated%2BMounts%2B1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="538" data-original-width="750" height="458" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1QCGq4j8syY/XLYFYZc3IgI/AAAAAAABHuA/kqE2izGe3xkLO19v2rcFhA_hJ5HQPN-wgCLcBGAs/s640/Updated%2BMounts%2B1.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The bolt on the far left of the assembly in the image above is what I was looking for rather than a large standard bolt head. This looks good and it took me some time to find it simple because of the size of the bolt (10mm) and it having to be fine thread along with only being 16mm or a little over a half inch long. I contacted my local Fastenal company and at the moment have the hardware I need on order. It will be here in a couple of days. At that point I should be able to start the final assembly of the wind deflectors and install them on to the dune buggy. Stay tuned for the final part of the build coming up soon. </span></div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-77053775439318347112019-04-07T16:45:00.000-07:002019-04-08T20:37:52.665-07:00Dune Buggy Wind Deflectors Project Part One<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">As the work progresses on with my Bugatti model project I also started looking at another project for my dune buggy once again. As most of you already know I have done a lot of work on the dune buggy to make small improvements to this already outstanding vehicle. I thought I had all the projects done but as usual I spoke to soon. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I have been learning a lot about how a dune buggy drives like even though I have yet to have a chance to drive the one I have down the road due to lack of warm enough weather here in the Midwest. With my online research I have found that the dune buggy will have a lot of side draft wind when it cruises down the road. Or better know as turbulence because of the flat windshield. To eliminate this side wind deflectors normally are installed to stop this from happening or at least reduce it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is a list of what projects that I have completed or have planned for the dune buggy so far.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">1. Create and install license plate mounts on front of car</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">2. Install of 3D printed housing cover to hide ugly hydraulics between the seats</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">3. Installation of a lock to the rear deck behind the seats</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">4. Installation of a GPS mount on the steering column</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">5. Removal of speakers that were badly placed and not hooked up to anything</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">6. Created 3D printed housing for a 40 watt wireless Bluetooth speaker mounted in roll cage</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">7. Created and installed fiber glass glove compartment for dash</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">8. Installation of a video backup camera with LED lights. (Note...there were no backup lights on car)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">9. Install needed of wind deflectors on both sides of the windshield</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">10. Install needed of removeable vinyl Sombrero top</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">11. Install needed of correct rear tires to match front tires</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">So you can see I have been busy over the winter months and still have a ways to go before I am done.</span> <span style="font-size: large;">With that in mind the wind deflectors are at the top of the list now and so the reason for this posting.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">With my research online to find information about wind deflectors I came across several manufacturers of this item. Prices ran from around $200 on up to as much as $300 or more. I looked at the different assemblies and how they are installed and once again knew that I could make the assemblies cheaper without having to drill holes into the windshield frame of the dune buggy.</span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pL3qtgKbjUs/XKpSWLqWNNI/AAAAAAABHeA/Zauqg0IX7rsmeZPfKElNPoq2gZku_zoHgCLcBGAs/s1600/Wind%2BDeflectore%2BShape.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="490" data-original-width="1275" height="244" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pL3qtgKbjUs/XKpSWLqWNNI/AAAAAAABHeA/Zauqg0IX7rsmeZPfKElNPoq2gZku_zoHgCLcBGAs/s640/Wind%2BDeflectore%2BShape.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Pictured above is what one of the deflectors look like. This photo is of a deflector sold by Meyer Manx dune buggies. It was a good place to start as from the site I was told that the holes in the polycarbonate plastic were 14 inches apart. From this bit of information I was able to create a template of the shape and scale it so the holes would be exactly 14 inches apart. This would make the rest of the drawing to also be correct. At least that is what I thought. More on this later.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is a good example of a pair of wind deflectors for a dune buggy. Nice but once again holes would have to be drilled into the windshield frame to mount them. Not what I want to do.</span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b0JCfqXipQg/XKpahCirs_I/AAAAAAABHeM/zhELOOJO_CAvN7-OK9t08TOevq8pJMlfwCLcBGAs/s1600/6022844.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="400" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b0JCfqXipQg/XKpahCirs_I/AAAAAAABHeM/zhELOOJO_CAvN7-OK9t08TOevq8pJMlfwCLcBGAs/s640/6022844.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Again another good set of wind deflectors also needing holes drilled in windshield frame to mount. Plus the fact that these deflectors cost around $300. Not what I want to spend.</span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ag0hDjRd29E/XKpahZUUMZI/AAAAAAABHeU/xssYgMXs_KwCB9wlIniS8yHKCqG3NnYEwCLcBGAs/s1600/Blue%2BBuggy.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="644" data-original-width="863" height="476" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ag0hDjRd29E/XKpahZUUMZI/AAAAAAABHeU/xssYgMXs_KwCB9wlIniS8yHKCqG3NnYEwCLcBGAs/s640/Blue%2BBuggy.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is a good looking buggy with the wind deflectors installed. I think this will be great for my buggy as well but I want to keep the cost down without having to drill into the windshield frame to get them installed.</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fuvwybV8rS4/XKpahSw-qcI/AAAAAAABHeY/0HCcHaATHycXvLH9rsM7CpXRXrQMoeY0QCLcBGAs/s1600/Yellow%2BBuggy.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="852" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fuvwybV8rS4/XKpahSw-qcI/AAAAAAABHeY/0HCcHaATHycXvLH9rsM7CpXRXrQMoeY0QCLcBGAs/s1600/Yellow%2BBuggy.png" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This gentleman has the same idea that I have by using mirror mounts to hold the wind deflectors in position without having to do any drilling. I found this photo online. What you see here is actually part of a glass shelving unit for a bathroom. Not sure how he managed to get the shelving mount to mate to the mirror mount though.</span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MHFqdC12fMk/XKp8Mff6_7I/AAAAAAABHfk/ul6d8muk2oQzIJE1IxOkA1BreKpNqu2zQCLcBGAs/s1600/Wind%2BDeflector%2B8.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="892" data-original-width="717" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MHFqdC12fMk/XKp8Mff6_7I/AAAAAAABHfk/ul6d8muk2oQzIJE1IxOkA1BreKpNqu2zQCLcBGAs/s640/Wind%2BDeflector%2B8.png" width="514" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">What I have in mind is to use the aluminum mirror mounts along with 3D printed pivot mounts for the wind deflectors. The deflectors themselves will be made from 1/4" polycarbonate plastic and the 3D printed parts will have a 60% infill to make them strong enough to do the job. With all of the 3D printing that I have done over the years I thing that a 60% infill should do the job nicely. The only way the parts could fail is if as my brother had said was to have a major bird strike the mount or at least hit it with a hammer. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">By the way for those of you unfamiliar with the term infill in 3D printing this is the amount of plastic within a part when it is printed. If you 3D printed a cube with nothing inside it would be hollow and have a 0% infill. If the cube was solid it would have a 100% infill. So I think 60% should work fine for the mounts.</span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SoTlgYU8l8o/XKp8Pr5RqeI/AAAAAAABHfs/T0937OwrzP8xwsAAbHapBz5pwxJa5gdiwCEwYBhgL/s1600/Wind%2BDeflector%2B9.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="791" data-original-width="775" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SoTlgYU8l8o/XKp8Pr5RqeI/AAAAAAABHfs/T0937OwrzP8xwsAAbHapBz5pwxJa5gdiwCEwYBhgL/s640/Wind%2BDeflector%2B9.png" width="626" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9DGln4GtQEw/XKp8PvnsxdI/AAAAAAABHfo/jWccGB6suIMae0f1LSk46JjjMS63CrNkwCEwYBhgL/s1600/Wind%2BDeflector%2B10.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="752" data-original-width="823" height="584" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9DGln4GtQEw/XKp8PvnsxdI/AAAAAAABHfo/jWccGB6suIMae0f1LSk46JjjMS63CrNkwCEwYBhgL/s640/Wind%2BDeflector%2B10.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's a good look at how the upper and lower mounts would look. The mounts are attached to the aluminum mirror mounts so there will be no need to drill into the windshield frame which makes the installation much quicker and easier. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xChqYdjSIsg/XKp8sZ423QI/AAAAAAABHf8/72IIZUGUv-MeSeZ6VZZ2QqE33rVPBkKVACLcBGAs/s1600/Mirror%2BMount.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="645" data-original-width="478" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xChqYdjSIsg/XKp8sZ423QI/AAAAAAABHf8/72IIZUGUv-MeSeZ6VZZ2QqE33rVPBkKVACLcBGAs/s640/Mirror%2BMount.png" width="474" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's what the aluminum mirror mounts look like and I will be using to mount the wind deflectors. I have these mounts on the car now and they are well made and are easy enough to install. Just a couple of minutes to mount all of them for the deflectors so that is a plus. That and the fact that a mounting hole is already for use could not make things simpler. </span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mvTcQuM4S9Y/XKp9n-0WkEI/AAAAAAABHgM/1iydaT8fxWYV61PxvmVSqfJP_r-ylXh8wCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2625.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mvTcQuM4S9Y/XKp9n-0WkEI/AAAAAAABHgM/1iydaT8fxWYV61PxvmVSqfJP_r-ylXh8wCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2625.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I have the polycarbonate for the deflectors already ordered for the project. To mention the shape of the deflectors again I originally had copied the image that I had gotten online from the Meyers Manx site. I cut out a template and this is what I found out. The shape I had created was good but it looked way to large to use for the project. You can see in the photo above that the deflector if mounted would extend above the edge of the roof line. Not what I wanted at all. Just does not look right in my eyes.</span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iEg5l26gDZ4/XKp9n_o8ciI/AAAAAAABHgI/RwCWTpaJC6s8u9CXrLKpAZqsDDbBX5ocQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2624.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iEg5l26gDZ4/XKp9n_o8ciI/AAAAAAABHgI/RwCWTpaJC6s8u9CXrLKpAZqsDDbBX5ocQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2624.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I went back to my computer and reworked the template for the deflectors by shortening the height by three inches. Now this looks more proper so that is the plan now to use this template for the project. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">It will take me a couple of days to create the 3D printed parts for the mounts which should not be any big problem. I have the aluminum mirror mounts ordered and should receive them in the next couple of weeks. When the polycarbonate for the deflectors also arrives I will see if I can get the parts cut out on a laser cutter at my local maker space. If not I know I can cut them out using a band saw but then some work will have to be done on the parts to sand the edges smooth and then make the edges clear again by using a butane torch to heat the plastic. I have played with this process before so I know it will work and not be terribly difficult to do. Just will have to take my time with the parts to get them the way I want and looking good when I am done. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">That's about it for now on this project. Once I get the materials together and start making parts I will post more info. It will be another nice addition to the dune buggy. By then the weather will have warmed up enough for me to actually get it on the road and test out the deflectors too. Should be fun to be sure. </span></div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-11516573413709387252019-03-26T12:09:00.001-07:002019-03-26T12:09:53.040-07:001/6th Scale 3D Printed 1927 Bugatti Type 35 Model Project Part 3<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">I have been plugging along on the Bugatti project again this past week and am happy to report that I have finished 3D printing all of the wheels and hubs for the model. This was actually a major part of the 3D printing that needed to be done coming in at 95 hours total for the tires and rims. With that effort I am rewarded with the knowledge that the model will have wheels that will roll instead of being locked in place.</span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aIXJYoVs90M/XJpuIwtnDKI/AAAAAAABHNg/Yr8g56VptBgs0mM9zexZ1SqaVk__lpF1wCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2546.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="507" data-original-width="1600" height="202" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aIXJYoVs90M/XJpuIwtnDKI/AAAAAAABHNg/Yr8g56VptBgs0mM9zexZ1SqaVk__lpF1wCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2546.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Each tire other than the spare is made up of all of the components you see pictured above. Starting from the left and moving right you have the outer rim, the tire, inner rim part one, inner rim part two, and finally the brake cover. I split up the inner rim into two pieces so that I could get nice clean surfaces on both sides. These parts were glued together after I 3D printing them. It worked out very well. </span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CrX4_p-7v7Q/XJpuI-mnsUI/AAAAAAABHNk/9lJYTd9o70QJa_VWJYlHzF3HA7LOhHs_wCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2550.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1374" data-original-width="1600" height="548" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CrX4_p-7v7Q/XJpuI-mnsUI/AAAAAAABHNk/9lJYTd9o70QJa_VWJYlHzF3HA7LOhHs_wCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2550.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This is how one of the tires looks on the side facing out. I like the detail I was able to achieve with the bolt pattern on the outer portion of the rim. The tire itself turned out very well also. </span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J1qcAuYOVFY/XJpubXaO02I/AAAAAAABHNs/aeF0Q_wbAe09P6I9X3K3Go0LLhOkku8eACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2551.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1473" data-original-width="1538" height="612" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J1qcAuYOVFY/XJpubXaO02I/AAAAAAABHNs/aeF0Q_wbAe09P6I9X3K3Go0LLhOkku8eACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2551.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's a shot of the inside of the same tire showing the brake cover. The little stem on the right side of the brake cover will be the mounting place for a small lever that is used to make the brakes work in the real car. </span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PRRUH4b_Xs8/XJpuf554o5I/AAAAAAABHNw/smBDC8yuqR0DqCDFgsmSNdNa8GXUkd0mQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2553.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="850" data-original-width="1600" height="340" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PRRUH4b_Xs8/XJpuf554o5I/AAAAAAABHNw/smBDC8yuqR0DqCDFgsmSNdNa8GXUkd0mQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2553.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I am happy to have this portion of the model completed only if it is just the tires and rims. It gets kind of boring making the same parts over and over again. But all of them turned out very well and will look great on the model once it is completed. </span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jvCqJMjBmHI/XJptgEERWZI/AAAAAAABHM0/_Dhqudl8awQAcZKuZRLwiG86SLe58lQAgCEwYBhgL/s1600/Frame%2B1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="875" data-original-width="1365" height="410" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jvCqJMjBmHI/XJptgEERWZI/AAAAAAABHM0/_Dhqudl8awQAcZKuZRLwiG86SLe58lQAgCEwYBhgL/s640/Frame%2B1.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is how the chassis looks at this point in Fusion 360. It has taken me a good part of the week just to finish up the front suspension and work out all of the parts for the rear setup as well. Starting to look like a real car so that is good. </span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R-BvbhSp7vM/XJptmr_aZCI/AAAAAAABHNI/RNij2ZzD2LMHK6scOLBbzWks3g5b9MmhQCEwYBhgL/s1600/Frame%2B2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="854" data-original-width="1192" height="458" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R-BvbhSp7vM/XJptmr_aZCI/AAAAAAABHNI/RNij2ZzD2LMHK6scOLBbzWks3g5b9MmhQCEwYBhgL/s640/Frame%2B2.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The bell housing at the rear of the car will be an interesting part to put together. Like the tires I plan on 3D print this into two parts. This way I get nice detail in that part of the assembly with very little clean-up after it has been 3D printed. </span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UWhbuWdLbMU/XJptmaoUqCI/AAAAAAABHNE/GXS_XeLpzMkO5xhePrzfj3Otvla0JkidACEwYBhgL/s1600/Frame%2B3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="918" data-original-width="1342" height="436" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UWhbuWdLbMU/XJptmaoUqCI/AAAAAAABHNE/GXS_XeLpzMkO5xhePrzfj3Otvla0JkidACEwYBhgL/s640/Frame%2B3.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I needed the rear axle assembly in the model so that I could mount the wheels properly. The axle is held in place by two leaf spring that are mounted on to the tail end of the frame and then face forward to meet up with the rear axle. Along side the frame are also two radius arms that go from the frame reward to the axle on the outside of the body. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This setup took me some time to figure out how to design so that I could 3D print the parts to make it all work. Being as the model is only 1/6th scale some of the parts get pretty small to make so I have to do the best I can to make it all work and look as correct as possible.</span> </div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EByMQTYX_3Y/XJptr60E2nI/AAAAAAABHNQ/WKvkqFhxou4dF3ntqCVxr2NZGKPbbIYCQCEwYBhgL/s1600/Frame%2B4.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="883" data-original-width="1122" height="502" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EByMQTYX_3Y/XJptr60E2nI/AAAAAAABHNQ/WKvkqFhxou4dF3ntqCVxr2NZGKPbbIYCQCEwYBhgL/s640/Frame%2B4.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> Here's and underside view of the frame setup showing the front and rear axle layouts. I still have more cross braces that need to be mounted between the two main frame rails but as for as I can see this should not be a big issue to work out for the model. </span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AmRVCgA7NYo/XJptyydQbII/AAAAAAABHNU/Rz_54oAkYvI5KXCF5v1hopJVvGcjmmL7wCEwYBhgL/s1600/Frame%2B5.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="887" data-original-width="1234" height="460" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AmRVCgA7NYo/XJptyydQbII/AAAAAAABHNU/Rz_54oAkYvI5KXCF5v1hopJVvGcjmmL7wCEwYBhgL/s640/Frame%2B5.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I do not plan on making the engine for the model as it will not be seen once the model is completed. I do want to put in a good detailed version of the cockpit though with of course seats, steering wheel, gauges and the like so I will just have make it as complete as I can when I get to that part of the design. As for the underside where the engine will be at this point I may just close that portion of the model up. I will again just have to see how difficult it would be to have an engine in the model so this may all change. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I talked with my brother on and off about the model over the past month or so and we both agreed that if the model was say 1/4 scale a lot more detail could be added to it. This is a given. But I would find it even more difficult to 3D print such a large model being around three feet long. If I could then I would make it radio controlled so I could at least play with it in my back yard. But I am not sure that my 3D printer could make such large parts so at this point it is just a passing thought. </span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NGbsi8H1eiA/XJp01y9OMuI/AAAAAAABHOY/PFjH5NFqD00EIYrUp6WJZSbGG4IMErCFACLcBGAs/s1600/Bugatti%2BBook.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1009" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NGbsi8H1eiA/XJp01y9OMuI/AAAAAAABHOY/PFjH5NFqD00EIYrUp6WJZSbGG4IMErCFACLcBGAs/s640/Bugatti%2BBook.png" width="570" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Finally for this post I wanted to mention the Haynes book "Bugatti Type 35 Owner's Workshop Manual" by Chas Parker. This book has given me a wealth of information about the Bugatti Type 35 along with many photos that I have not seen online. Also in the book is the history of Mr. Bugatti himself and many of the drivers that raced this amazing vehicle. It has helped me greatly in being able to model the Bugatti so that I can 3D print it. I just hope I will be able to do it justice to the car when I am done. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">So that's about all I have for you this week. I should be able to start printing parts of the chassis and body in the coming weeks so that the model can start being assembled. Should be interesting to say the least.</span> </div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-56261769963712112672019-03-19T08:02:00.000-07:002019-03-19T08:02:57.136-07:001/6th Scale 3D Printed 1927 Bugatti Type 35 Model Project Part 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">This weeks brings a lot of design progress to this project. With the body panels pretty well done along with the front suspension starting to take shape the hours I put into the design are coming together.</span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ps-kZfXiUoY/XJD3x2hh_GI/AAAAAAABG7o/_K0cxfdUxiAekJYuy0if4p_ICt0NkhXkwCLcBGAs/s1600/Bugatti%2BBlue%2BBackground%2B11.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="835" data-original-width="1366" height="390" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ps-kZfXiUoY/XJD3x2hh_GI/AAAAAAABG7o/_K0cxfdUxiAekJYuy0if4p_ICt0NkhXkwCLcBGAs/s640/Bugatti%2BBlue%2BBackground%2B11.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's a good view of the Fusion 360 model as of this morning. It is starting to look like a proper Bugatti Type 35 so I am happy for that much. </span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nINy7b8474I/XJD4xLOKtSI/AAAAAAABG70/k3Yk6IFhvgcOUvkhbiFrm43RT3xGlUPIwCLcBGAs/s1600/Front%2BSuspension.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="702" data-original-width="1512" height="296" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nINy7b8474I/XJD4xLOKtSI/AAAAAAABG70/k3Yk6IFhvgcOUvkhbiFrm43RT3xGlUPIwCLcBGAs/s640/Front%2BSuspension.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I have to keep reminding myself that this will be a model and not an actual car that will be assembled like a real car. The perfect example of this is the front suspension that you see pictured above. In a real car the front axle and leaf springs are assembled separately and then finally together. For the model it is much simpler to combine these to assemblies into one single part that will be 3D printed. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I took great care in modeling the leaf springs. I want them to look like the real thing in the model rather than just a simple representation of the assembly. This was not an easy task as it took me a little more than a day to get them modeled as you see in the image above. In the model the leaf springs are only around three inches apart so hopefully all the detail that I have modeled hear will not be lost because of the size of the model when I 3D print it. </span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kGpDE2FLBLs/XJD3x1sukHI/AAAAAAABG7s/zpPBTvuelhkgyyoBWvfhwd3M07CouE76wCEwYBhgL/s1600/Bugatti%2BBlue%2BBackground%2B10.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="893" data-original-width="1214" height="470" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kGpDE2FLBLs/XJD3x1sukHI/AAAAAAABG7s/zpPBTvuelhkgyyoBWvfhwd3M07CouE76wCEwYBhgL/s640/Bugatti%2BBlue%2BBackground%2B10.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In this view you can see the detail again in the leaf spring along with the front brake assembly and the tie rod connections. The arm on the right side of the brake drum will be connected to a small cable that would pull the arm rearward when the brakes would be applied. Hopefully I can get the cable installed in the model using a small piece of wire. That is the plan anyway.</span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OwuR6dBsjOU/XJD6tsxMoEI/AAAAAAABG8U/wmeQU5gEzqcxl7IhXceWsBNQ2yM2xtmeACLcBGAs/s1600/Bugatti%2BBlue%2BBackground%2B9.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="928" data-original-width="1276" height="464" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OwuR6dBsjOU/XJD6tsxMoEI/AAAAAAABG8U/wmeQU5gEzqcxl7IhXceWsBNQ2yM2xtmeACLcBGAs/s640/Bugatti%2BBlue%2BBackground%2B9.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's another view of the front end of the Bugatti with most of the suspension installed along with the steering setup. In the first image in this post you can see a piece of sheet metal that is in front of the radiator. I left this part off in this image so that you could see the suspension setup easier. </span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TJrYXCyvow0/XJD9ZN9XzGI/AAAAAAABG8g/x6wcJwvUIeQAKzd6DjAjv6C3eQlRajUugCLcBGAs/s1600/Gas%2BCap.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="593" data-original-width="738" height="514" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TJrYXCyvow0/XJD9ZN9XzGI/AAAAAAABG8g/x6wcJwvUIeQAKzd6DjAjv6C3eQlRajUugCLcBGAs/s640/Gas%2BCap.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Among the other features that I needed for the model was the gas cap pictured above. This image was created using Fusion 360 CAD software. Looks really close to the real thing in this image. Nice but I only wish that I could make this part as you see it here. The part in the completed model will be quite small and I will not be able to smooth it out as perfectly as you see here. That would take an SLA 3D printer and then have to be painted chrome on top of it all. I will have to settle for my FDM 3D printer and leave it unfinished. </span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Xifq02JpToo/XJD9ZCLAYaI/AAAAAAABG8s/zw-bz_PS2SALw9FkSX8pYUZOXdTWT8MPgCEwYBhgL/s1600/Radiator%2BCap.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="752" data-original-width="919" height="522" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Xifq02JpToo/XJD9ZCLAYaI/AAAAAAABG8s/zw-bz_PS2SALw9FkSX8pYUZOXdTWT8MPgCEwYBhgL/s640/Radiator%2BCap.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is another good example of what Fusion 360 CAD software can create with this image of the radiator cap and temperature gauge that I designed for my Bugatti model. Again it would be very difficult to get this as smooth and finished with the 3D printer that I own so I will have to settle for the best that I can do when I complete the model. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CaoLAk_LKYg/XJECEP4uaxI/AAAAAAABG9g/pEKrcApkqVYmDa6VuPTstnaEi38QQ0GLACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2531.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="879" data-original-width="1600" height="350" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CaoLAk_LKYg/XJECEP4uaxI/AAAAAAABG9g/pEKrcApkqVYmDa6VuPTstnaEi38QQ0GLACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2531.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="background-color: white;">All five of the<span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: black; display: inline !important; float: none; font-family: Times New Roman; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"> tires had taken me 43 hours to 3D print. I managed to get some nice detail in the tires by splitting them down the middle, 3D printing them and then gluing them together. This gave me nice clean tires on both sides and the seam down the middle of the tire is almost invisible so it will look really good once the model is completed.</span></span></span><b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">All in all the model of the Bugatti is coming along nicely. I have not been keeping track of the hours of work that I have been putting in using Fusion 360 CAD software at this point. The best guess is that it is in excess of 100 hours already and I know that I have a long ways to go before I can say the design is completed and I can plan on 3D printing all the parts to assemble the model. A real challenge to be sure. I'll keep you up to date with further postings on this project. </span></div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-77992775258490168682019-03-11T15:18:00.000-07:002019-03-11T17:15:26.551-07:001/6th Scale 3D Printed 1927 Bugatti Type 35 Model Project Part 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">This project has been in the works for well over a year. Or at least it has been on my mind that long and I have finally cracked some of the design issues I had been struggling with creating this model in Fusion 360. </span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HrVM1KvyVxc/XIbR8oZJHCI/AAAAAAABG1g/hTBMD3H5rrMkrUVEvZHFDuZCKKBS-2AMgCLcBGAs/s1600/1925_Bugatti_Type352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HrVM1KvyVxc/XIbR8oZJHCI/AAAAAAABG1g/hTBMD3H5rrMkrUVEvZHFDuZCKKBS-2AMgCLcBGAs/s640/1925_Bugatti_Type352.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is a good photo of the real thing that I got off of a site called Supercars.net. I created a Blender 3D model of this car back in April of 2015 and I always thought that it would be great to create a good sized real model of it. I did not want a small model so I decided to make it 1/6th scale. As the real car is twelve feet in length the finished model will end up being two feet long. I would definitely call that a good sized model.</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AiHP6XyiLTY/XIbR_aEjskI/AAAAAAABG3Q/vXiA3zi5AVgAEYYxEEGf4_oF4_Wc1KHfgCEwYBhgL/s1600/3D%2BBugatti%2BType%2B35%2BTail.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="879" data-original-width="1465" height="384" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AiHP6XyiLTY/XIbR_aEjskI/AAAAAAABG3Q/vXiA3zi5AVgAEYYxEEGf4_oF4_Wc1KHfgCEwYBhgL/s640/3D%2BBugatti%2BType%2B35%2BTail.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">A key piece that I had issues with in designing a model of the Bugatti was the boat tail rear end of the car. I struggled with this portion of the car on and off over the past year or more and about a week ago I finally figured out how to get the shape modeled correctly. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> Pictured above is an image from Fusion 360 of the design. I will have to 3D print this part with the tail end sticking straight up. To do this I added an additional brace to the model (shown on the left of the piece) that will be cut away once the part has been 3D printed. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The best estimate of the time to 3D print this section of the 1/6th scale body will be somewhere around 25 hours. One of my largest prints ever. I sure I will be happy when I can hold it in my hands and call it a good part.</span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mmnZeM5aXfM/XIbVP666tAI/AAAAAAABG3w/p9K7Ez7M2XM70CUYKbwwcXeTsTi1gy6AQCLcBGAs/s1600/Blueprints.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="1351" height="382" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mmnZeM5aXfM/XIbVP666tAI/AAAAAAABG3w/p9K7Ez7M2XM70CUYKbwwcXeTsTi1gy6AQCLcBGAs/s640/Blueprints.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gwrgG1DVbTU/XIbSDjRl4BI/AAAAAAABG3Q/ZApTFKoD00c3kr3DR3Ca4cZ4Mf2QuaxVACEwYBhgL/s1600/Bugatti%2BBroadside%2B2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="643" data-original-width="1541" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gwrgG1DVbTU/XIbSDjRl4BI/AAAAAAABG3Q/ZApTFKoD00c3kr3DR3Ca4cZ4Mf2QuaxVACEwYBhgL/s640/Bugatti%2BBroadside%2B2.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In order to get the model to scale and have all of the parts fit up correctly I started out using templates or blueprints of the car which I found online. The top image shows the side, rear and top of the car blueprint. To start modeling the car these images along with the front image of the car are scaled to the correct size and then aligned with each other so they can be modeled correctly. I need to constantly check several different views to make sure I get every part modeled and lined up correctly.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In the bottom view you can see several of the body parts already modeled along with a couple of the wheels. This gives you a good idea of how the car will look once all the pieces have been modeled in Fusion 360 so the completed model will look like the real thing when I am done. Or at least as close as I am able to make it. </span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TlFW74nVNJM/XIbSMYjfyDI/AAAAAAABG3o/GJ9PF8GJeRo9QJaaonMAbhjYeANCUc8wwCEwYBhgL/s1600/bugatti-type-35-grand-prix-009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="805" data-original-width="1280" height="402" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TlFW74nVNJM/XIbSMYjfyDI/AAAAAAABG3o/GJ9PF8GJeRo9QJaaonMAbhjYeANCUc8wwCEwYBhgL/s640/bugatti-type-35-grand-prix-009.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kHoIXlXsj2I/XIbSFww_mgI/AAAAAAABG3g/OJsNEsMUQL8CaTZ5oTjmiGi1Rqd6ls6rACEwYBhgL/s1600/Bugatti%2BBroadside.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="1309" height="276" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kHoIXlXsj2I/XIbSFww_mgI/AAAAAAABG3g/OJsNEsMUQL8CaTZ5oTjmiGi1Rqd6ls6rACEwYBhgL/s640/Bugatti%2BBroadside.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Along with the blueprints for the car I gather up a lot of reference photos so that I can get as much detail in the model as I possibly can. The fact that the model will be two foot long when it is complete will make it possible to get some nice detail in the model much easier than a smaller model. As you can see from the photos above again of the real cars there are a quite a lot of difference from one side of the car to the other side.</span> </div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dv_gOiBMZak/XIbSCT5XArI/AAAAAAABG3U/85lpBU6YzhYRZISDZZBEyQK-O51ET8pnACEwYBhgL/s1600/Bugatti%2BBlue%2BBackground%2B2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="786" data-original-width="1513" height="332" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dv_gOiBMZak/XIbSCT5XArI/AAAAAAABG3U/85lpBU6YzhYRZISDZZBEyQK-O51ET8pnACEwYBhgL/s640/Bugatti%2BBlue%2BBackground%2B2.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rfY1-4A9Uxc/XIbSDf_mVbI/AAAAAAABG3c/Rz5EFUA3Z544HR5lRlX2f6sK8hi3TDTRQCEwYBhgL/s1600/Bugatti%2BBlue%2BBackground%2B3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="766" data-original-width="1472" height="332" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rfY1-4A9Uxc/XIbSDf_mVbI/AAAAAAABG3c/Rz5EFUA3Z544HR5lRlX2f6sK8hi3TDTRQCEwYBhgL/s640/Bugatti%2BBlue%2BBackground%2B3.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">As of this afternoon this is where I am at with the modeling of the Bugatti in Fusion 360. I am very pleased with how it is all coming together so far. To give you an idea of the amount of work to create just what you see here take a look at the louvered section of the engine hood. This section has 23 louvers on each side of the hood.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> Each louver needed to be modeled one at a time and takes about 40 commands to create in Fusion. That is over 900 commands to create just one set of louvers for the hood sides. I still will need to create even more louvers that go on the top of the hood. A slow process to be sure but again I want to get as much detail in the model as I possibly can.</span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wh2Hoh9bXPw/XIbSK7UYyDI/AAAAAAABG3c/urrx2qu_xKIhU55gETB2yc_yPaOdLeq-ACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wh2Hoh9bXPw/XIbSK7UYyDI/AAAAAAABG3c/urrx2qu_xKIhU55gETB2yc_yPaOdLeq-ACEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2524.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5-Ml6DtF_Kg/XIbSL54oiKI/AAAAAAABG3o/cf9syLhOfj0nM1xUvWpelmMRHjFXiKXGQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2527.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5-Ml6DtF_Kg/XIbSL54oiKI/AAAAAAABG3o/cf9syLhOfj0nM1xUvWpelmMRHjFXiKXGQCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2527.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I am very confident that the model will work out so I started making the tires. Again I referenced some photos of the Bugatti online and found a good tread pattern that was on a car. I worked out the pattern and started 3D printing a couple of the five tires that I will need for the model. The tires had to be split down the center of the tread so that I would have good tread and sidewalls on both sides of the tires. Once two halves of a tire are 3D printed it is a simple task to glue them together using modeling glue making sure that the tread pattern and two halves are lined up to make it all look correct. As you can see the tires are a good size coming in at 4.75 inches in diameter and just shy of .75 inches wide.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I have more research work to do on the car in order to create the model but I am happy so far with my progress. I will have to keep track of the hours that it will take to 3D print so that I can let you know how it all tallies up when I am finished putting it all together. At this point I plan on not sanding the model smooth as I think I would loose a lot of detail in the model by doing so. Some parts may need to be painted but that will not be a big issue. </span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JygL5KR4XPs/XIbaSOthD3I/AAAAAAABG38/BAVZxut8otMmPFCHS9FiTL1_VYTiHLIRgCLcBGAs/s1600/Bugatti%2BShadows%2BFront.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JygL5KR4XPs/XIbaSOthD3I/AAAAAAABG38/BAVZxut8otMmPFCHS9FiTL1_VYTiHLIRgCLcBGAs/s640/Bugatti%2BShadows%2BFront.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VfL6T1SxsuU/XIbaSBaqXxI/AAAAAAABG4A/HysiUPJH39kv6EuTI-C6uSzLux_HnQmdwCLcBGAs/s1600/Bugatti%2BShadows%2BRear.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VfL6T1SxsuU/XIbaSBaqXxI/AAAAAAABG4A/HysiUPJH39kv6EuTI-C6uSzLux_HnQmdwCLcBGAs/s640/Bugatti%2BShadows%2BRear.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">Here once again are images of the Bugatti that I created using Blender 3D. So far I am liking what is turning out in Fusion 360 as well. Being as the Fusion 360 model is looking very close to this Blender 3D model that is just a pretty picture and not something that I can 3D print. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">So you can see by comparing the Blender 3D images and the Fusion 360 model images that I am still working on that I have a lot of work ahead of me yet to get the model ready for 3D printing. Lots of little parts to figure out how to design in Fusion 360 and 3D print. Then also how to put the actual model together once the parts are made. It will keep me busy for some time yet but so far it looks like it is all possible and should be a lot of fun to create. In the meantime I hope you enjoy seeing what I have put together so far and have plans for with this project. I'll post more as I make additional progress. </span></div>
Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-34856147866422137292019-03-04T08:55:00.002-08:002019-03-04T08:55:28.990-08:003D Printed Three Bladed Boomerang Project!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">Roughly fifty plus years ago when I was just a kid in school I enjoyed playing with a toy that no longer is on the market. This was a three bladed boomerang produced by Ohio Arts. I am not sure if the company even exists today but I do remember the toy very well and thought that it would be great if I could find one. I went online to see what I could find. I only came across a couple of postings about the toy. One was an article about it and the comment that one had sold on Ebay for $200. I then found the toy on a site called Etsy. Here the seller also wanted $200. I remember this toy only costing me a couple of dollars. No way am I going to pay that kind of money and I knew that I could make it maybe even as less as what I paid for it as a kid. Another project presented itself once again.</span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RW4CYze604A/XH1JGMy6O8I/AAAAAAABGso/gvlUM79oeGAGkTiYUWRYay1CybhS0X0QwCLcBGAs/s1600/Hi-Yo.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1421" height="424" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RW4CYze604A/XH1JGMy6O8I/AAAAAAABGso/gvlUM79oeGAGkTiYUWRYay1CybhS0X0QwCLcBGAs/s640/Hi-Yo.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The photo above shows what I had recently come across on Etsy. This was called the HiYo boomerang. It flew like a regular boomerang and I remember that you needed a good sized baseball field to fly it. It was a lot of fun but there is no way that I would want to pay more than a few dollars for one even today. </span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4tJngl7Yr3E/XH1LQ50DBVI/AAAAAAABGs8/r3pLy6HuFpUu8VssCN3tzBjzWphb4AYtACLcBGAs/s1600/Airfoil%2BShapes.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="722" data-original-width="1078" height="428" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4tJngl7Yr3E/XH1LQ50DBVI/AAAAAAABGs8/r3pLy6HuFpUu8VssCN3tzBjzWphb4AYtACLcBGAs/s640/Airfoil%2BShapes.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I did remember that the original boomerang wings had an airfoil shape like what is on an airplane and with the information that I had gleaned from the Etsy site found out the dimensions of the wings as well. It was at least a start. I did a little more research online to find a suitable airfoil shape. The diagram above gives you just an inkling of the different types of airfoils shapes that are used in aircraft. The bottom shape called the Actual Clark Y was what I was looking for. </span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F4r8gl-Mf_E/XH1JH1xG3UI/AAAAAAABGss/nFzYd-U5q006yJDKYdfS4YXSkHIsTQI3wCEwYBhgL/s1600/Boomerang%2B2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="804" data-original-width="1282" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F4r8gl-Mf_E/XH1JH1xG3UI/AAAAAAABGss/nFzYd-U5q006yJDKYdfS4YXSkHIsTQI3wCEwYBhgL/s640/Boomerang%2B2.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">As I usually do I started my design work using Fusion 360 CAD software. The image above is what I came up with. I knew that the distance of the original boomerang from tip to top was 12.5 inches. Again this was valuable info as it made laying out the new design much easier to work out. I took the original boomerang photo from Etsy and scaled it to the 12.5 inch tip to tip size. From there I copied the airfoil shape on the tip of the layout and again near the center of the new boomerang design. After this was completed I simply lofted the airfoil sketches to form one of the wings. I knew at this point that the shape of the wing looked good. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Next I took the first wing shape and made a circular pattern around the center axis of my computer model. This gave me the three wings I needed for the toy. After some cleanup of the model to get the nice smooth shape where the three wings overlapped I combined all three parts into one body or component. I decided to make a recessed triangular area in the middle of the toy and insert an additional triangular part with a star cut out in the middle just to give it a little Tinker's Workshop style. </span> </div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sEN8zz7HdYQ/XH1JIDxAyUI/AAAAAAABGsw/NuJ-X7TRqBcz5g_siYmaKc3TIbGkPfQQgCLcBGAs/s1600/Boomerang%2BHalf%2BScale.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1022" data-original-width="1399" height="466" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sEN8zz7HdYQ/XH1JIDxAyUI/AAAAAAABGsw/NuJ-X7TRqBcz5g_siYmaKc3TIbGkPfQQgCLcBGAs/s640/Boomerang%2BHalf%2BScale.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is how the finished boomerang looks this morning after 3D printing, sanding, and painting was completed. This is actually the second test model. The first model I 3D printed worked right out of the box on the first throw. The only trouble was that my back yard was nowhere near big enough to fly the first test model. (My mistake.) With the first throw I made the boomerang immediate made a 180 degree turn, flew over my garage and to this day I still have not found it. Luckily I did not 3D print the first test model full scale. That boomerang along with this latest one is only half scale being eight inches in diameter. It was much quicker to make it this size and if it failed would be easier to try and correct any design flaws to make another test boomerang. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">My 3D printer will be able to make the full sized version which will be sixteen inches in diameter if and when I find that the second test model flies as well if not better than the first test version did. I will test the second model out in the next couple of weeks when the weather starts to warm up a bit and I can get to a baseball field that is near my home. (Seven below zero out today....ouch!) At least there I can give it a good throw and still be able to see where it lands so I don't loose this boomerang like I did with the first one. If it all works out I will then 3D print the full sized version that takes over nine hours to 3D print. I'll let you know how it all turns out. Have a good one!</span></div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-26645062507540290502019-02-27T10:19:00.000-08:002019-03-02T11:48:40.751-08:00Creality CR-10 S4 Filament Spool Stabilizer Project<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">I finished this project a few weeks ago and am finally posting about it now. On my Creality CR-10 S4 3D printer I found that once in a while when I am making something that the standard support for the spool of filament begins to vibrate more than I would like. This vibration is caused by the printer itself and the part it is making. When the head of the printer gets into a rhythm in the "Y" axis (a forward and back motion) that starts a vibration on the spool holder which increases the vibration even more. Not a good thing to have going on while 3D printing. So this project came to be. </span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0IP6Kv80H4w/XHrd1Y2wM_I/AAAAAAABGrg/AqvstnnMiSozs5nA-JBkEGk143CZ5uEdgCLcBGAs/s1600/Printer%2BControl%2BBox%2B2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="961" data-original-width="860" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0IP6Kv80H4w/XHrd1Y2wM_I/AAAAAAABGrg/AqvstnnMiSozs5nA-JBkEGk143CZ5uEdgCLcBGAs/s640/Printer%2BControl%2BBox%2B2.png" width="572" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2FuJNGWpvVw/XHbNyIvykCI/AAAAAAABGpI/QRv94eYc1zclvLVZZDu_-JUzv3FkzmDwwCEwYBhgL/s1600/Spool%2BStabilizer%2B9.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="840" data-original-width="771" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2FuJNGWpvVw/XHbNyIvykCI/AAAAAAABGpI/QRv94eYc1zclvLVZZDu_-JUzv3FkzmDwwCEwYBhgL/s640/Spool%2BStabilizer%2B9.png" width="586" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The spool of filament rests on a horizontal shaft that is mounted to an arm at the rear of the control box for the Creality CR-10 series printers. This shaft setup seems to work fine other than the problem that I have come across. The vibration is caused by the resonance of the printer and is amplified by the spool hanging on this shaft. </span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-c6hrB44i-fM/XHbKZtkTVYI/AAAAAAABGo4/AisQZKMtjCYctQ2LPaxNo714703I1RZYACEwYBhgL/s1600/Spool%2BStabilizer%2B7.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="864" data-original-width="816" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-c6hrB44i-fM/XHbKZtkTVYI/AAAAAAABGo4/AisQZKMtjCYctQ2LPaxNo714703I1RZYACEwYBhgL/s640/Spool%2BStabilizer%2B7.png" width="604" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">To eliminate the resonance started by the rhythm of the printer I created the stabilizer for the shaft of the filament spool pictured above. It took me a couple of tries to get the alignment of the hole for the shaft and the "C" shaped form at the bottom of the stabilizer to line up correctly but it has been worth the effort. I printed the part using ABS filament with only a 20% infill. This part did not need to be very solid to do it's job and over the past few weeks I found this amount of infill to work very well.</span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Wv5HHFs-ylg/XHrd_4flSUI/AAAAAAABGrk/vSp04BJQ9sEM9JVXL6hxHPMCaJwMxH-twCLcBGAs/s1600/Printer%2BControl%2BBox.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="943" data-original-width="892" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Wv5HHFs-ylg/XHrd_4flSUI/AAAAAAABGrk/vSp04BJQ9sEM9JVXL6hxHPMCaJwMxH-twCLcBGAs/s640/Printer%2BControl%2BBox.png" width="604" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">With the stabilizer in place it has eliminated the resonance of the printer and just put my mind a little more at ease while running the machine. To install the stabilizer is a simple task of removing the large retaining nut on the end of the filament spool shaft and then sliding the new part onto the shaft and over the top of the control box as pictured above. The retaining nut is then reinstalled and it's ready to use. There is more than enough room on the shaft to have the stabilizer and spool together without any binding. </span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gGxdQJo4zXA/XHbKYge2E-I/AAAAAAABGos/FUv0hnW0wyMa5RUdsAuVDIYpoQIUtl9bQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2496.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gGxdQJo4zXA/XHbKYge2E-I/AAAAAAABGos/FUv0hnW0wyMa5RUdsAuVDIYpoQIUtl9bQCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2496.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bDrZtoTjPSk/XHbKZaYYOUI/AAAAAAABGo0/BDnpYsTh-Y0f_Ge6qz47tdyOCIooezx9QCEwYBhgL/s1600/Spool%2BStabilizer%2B6.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="925" data-original-width="699" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bDrZtoTjPSk/XHbKZaYYOUI/AAAAAAABGo0/BDnpYsTh-Y0f_Ge6qz47tdyOCIooezx9QCEwYBhgL/s640/Spool%2BStabilizer%2B6.png" width="482" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's a couple of good shots of the stabilizer installed on my 3D printer control box. I printed it in black to blend in with the rest of the components for my 3D printer. Of course any color would do just as well. It was just a matter of personal preference at this point. I am just happy that the new addition to the printer is working out very well and has cured one more issue that I felt needed to be addressed. If it makes 3D printing parts easier than I am all for it.</span></div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-27587055476830130322019-02-18T13:54:00.000-08:002019-02-18T14:30:38.080-08:00Multi-Colored Parts Test Project Using Cura Software<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">This afternoon I put together a small test project that has been on my mind for some time. The idea for the project came together a couple of weeks ago when I found a video on YouTube on how to make multi-colored parts on my 3D printer that has only one extruder. I liked the idea and saved the video to my computer for future reference. More about this in a minute.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">A couple of days ago I got to talking with my sister about my 1970 dune buggy that I have been making several projects for and thought one thing was missing. A peace sign hanging from the rear view mirror. With that idea along with the multi-color 3D printing video this little test project was born.</span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U4Eo-JVFDUQ/XGsjsq368jI/AAAAAAABGVA/LYkxHMR_P6MqWPjQlj0NUYCfbfCKTD3uACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2476.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1161" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U4Eo-JVFDUQ/XGsjsq368jI/AAAAAAABGVA/LYkxHMR_P6MqWPjQlj0NUYCfbfCKTD3uACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2476.JPG" width="464" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">With the project being a peace sign I knew that I had to make it red, white and blue. Pictured above is how the little sign turned out. With the video that I had found on YouTube I was able to make the necessary changes to the G-Code in Cura slicing software for my 3D printer so that it would pause after each layer of colored filament had been completed. I designed the peace sign using Fusion 360 and made it so that it was .60 of an inch thick over all. The diameter of the circle is exactly three inches. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zon5HDqPIl4/XGsjrg_pUBI/AAAAAAABGVI/E8wmK0WXLVAQkN_hevdMVl7QsGV7EpDmQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2461.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1418" data-original-width="1221" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zon5HDqPIl4/XGsjrg_pUBI/AAAAAAABGVI/E8wmK0WXLVAQkN_hevdMVl7QsGV7EpDmQCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2461.JPG" width="550" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I did not want the peace sign to be to large so I thought that it would be about the right size at three inches in diameter. I started with the color red first on the 3D printer and after it had reached .20 of an inch in height it paused so that I could change the filament to the color white. The first time I had tried to print the part I had the wrong filament in and so I had to start over. I thought I had red in the machine but it did not look right. It looked more orange than red so back to the beginning. Luckily I had a new spool of bright red ABS filament sitting next to my machine so it was not a major setback.</span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A6bDL5GSrdg/XGsjsIYlumI/AAAAAAABGVQ/J8OInjaZ8WgqaOjR-yhhOOzkxx16wtZIgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2472.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1257" data-original-width="1600" height="502" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A6bDL5GSrdg/XGsjsIYlumI/AAAAAAABGVQ/J8OInjaZ8WgqaOjR-yhhOOzkxx16wtZIgCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2472.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Once I had changed to the white filament for the second part of the project I just let it run until the next pause came up on the printer. I finally added the blue filament and as you can see from the photos it worked perfectly. When the 3D printer paused so that I could change filament the extruder moved to the center of my print bed so it was out of the way. I then changed filament after which I went back to the control panel for my Creality CR-10 S4 printer and told it to resume the print. The printer then came back up to the correct temperature to print the following layers and it matched everything up perfectly. A no brainer so to speak to make it all work out as well as it did.</span><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oCPCQnMVhOA/XGsx7bFGWHI/AAAAAAABGW4/I-Xo6AGD9u04nqjWk6OsjC5EQIC20BQuQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2484.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1208" data-original-width="1600" height="482" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oCPCQnMVhOA/XGsx7bFGWHI/AAAAAAABGW4/I-Xo6AGD9u04nqjWk6OsjC5EQIC20BQuQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2484.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The perfect place for the peace sign.... the rear view mirror of my dune buggy.</span></div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEbnix5wZP4" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">How To Make Multi-Colored Parts In Cura</span></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's the link for the video from "Frank's 3D Shop" on YouTube to show you exactly how I made my little peace sign. It is an easy video to watch and follow so you should have no trouble in making multi-colored parts on your 3D printer just like I did without having to have a dual extruder on your printer. Good luck!</span></div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-60818346313918478902019-02-13T08:07:00.003-08:002019-02-13T08:16:10.091-08:00Mind Boggling R/C Model Making..... "I'm Not Worthy!"<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EMOgjVt1Ojo/XGRCZMjX8RI/AAAAAAABGHM/O_SEgGr5LTEp9Qd8Zo33D7jh5fl48fH3gCLcBGAs/s1600/Dodge%2B4.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="688" data-original-width="1232" height="356" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EMOgjVt1Ojo/XGRCZMjX8RI/AAAAAAABGHM/O_SEgGr5LTEp9Qd8Zo33D7jh5fl48fH3gCLcBGAs/s640/Dodge%2B4.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I was doing some work in my workroom yesterday and while I was 3D printing some large parts I was also surfing on the Internet as I usually do. This kills some time while waiting for the 3D printer to complete whatever part it is making. While killing time I came across an amazing video of a radio controlled model truck being constructed. Various materials were used in this 1/6th scale 1961 Dodge D100 pickup which was crafted by Konstatin Bogdanov. All of it built way beyond my skill level.</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r-NUP-RsuzY/XGRCY8KV13I/AAAAAAABGHI/o_ha7solBq4npZrW6lvU9iX5-FaX1yBsACLcBGAs/s1600/Dodge%2B3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="689" data-original-width="1230" height="358" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r-NUP-RsuzY/XGRCY8KV13I/AAAAAAABGHI/o_ha7solBq4npZrW6lvU9iX5-FaX1yBsACLcBGAs/s640/Dodge%2B3.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">One of the main things that peaked my interest in this video was that the truck was designed using Blender 3D. Not a design software in any sense of the word and not my choice of software to design anything but this has led me to look into the process further to see how it was done. After watching the video my eyes have been opened as far as the design work goes. Then the build was started and I was further blown away by the expert skill level of this amazing modeler. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zoxqNPjPNVY/XGRCZRqIM4I/AAAAAAABGHQ/oPWJAefNOJwYkQzb6tj-nBmh2AToSE9mACLcBGAs/s1600/Dodge%2B5.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="682" data-original-width="1224" height="356" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zoxqNPjPNVY/XGRCZRqIM4I/AAAAAAABGHQ/oPWJAefNOJwYkQzb6tj-nBmh2AToSE9mACLcBGAs/s640/Dodge%2B5.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I usually get comments from people I meet about the projects I build that amaze me by the responses that I hear. I classify these comments as the typical "I'm not worthy! I'm not worthy!" type of response. So I have no hesitation in saying the same for this builder of this model truck with all honesty I have to say "I'm Not Worthy!" Check out the video and you will understand why I bow down to this amazing builder and give him a standing ovation for his modeling skills.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwSIgDKvMHk" target="_blank">1/6th Scale 1961 Dodge D100 Pickup Truck Model Build Video</a></span></div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-68428296970784490902019-02-08T10:42:00.001-08:002019-02-08T10:42:29.866-08:00A Blender 3D Mini Cooper and A Little Green Alien<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">With all of the cold winter weather keeping me indoors the past couple of weeks I have been keeping busy once again modeling with Blender 3D. Also since I thought I better get another posting out to keep all of you up to date this makes another good subject to write about. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">As most of you already know I drive a very nice little 2014 Mini Cooper. It has been one of my goals for a long time to model my Mini in 3D using Blender 3D. I finally bit the bullet this past week and got started on this project. Like most of the vehicles I model I know this will take some time as it usually takes me around 100 hours or so to complete any vehicle that I put a large amount of detail into using Blender. I suspect that this will be the same with my Mini Cooper.</span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V_yqWhE6syY/XF270ArdY-I/AAAAAAABF8w/KAJIS91bh2sOeY1RRJPS1vZ3BuVXu1d4wCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSC05158.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1034" data-original-width="1600" height="412" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V_yqWhE6syY/XF270ArdY-I/AAAAAAABF8w/KAJIS91bh2sOeY1RRJPS1vZ3BuVXu1d4wCEwYBhgL/s640/DSC05158.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">As with all of the vehicles that I model in Blender I start by tracking down as many images as I can of the car or truck that I am working on. I am fortunate to own my little mini so I have a good reference point to start the project. </span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CZTDzcwatxA/XF27R_RJmOI/AAAAAAABF8c/CxDkovi5xnMWnzWQ7qCCdlcjSnLPhmFIQCEwYBhgL/s1600/car_back_left_by_shivamcreation02-dac46nw.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="490" data-original-width="956" height="328" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CZTDzcwatxA/XF27R_RJmOI/AAAAAAABF8c/CxDkovi5xnMWnzWQ7qCCdlcjSnLPhmFIQCEwYBhgL/s640/car_back_left_by_shivamcreation02-dac46nw.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IxAnD0bmQ6s/XF27SK63gZI/AAAAAAABF8g/5XoF6JaZoLMLQMwuXmOC4rlXKAKKqnxFACEwYBhgL/s1600/mini-2014-oficial-14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IxAnD0bmQ6s/XF27SK63gZI/AAAAAAABF8g/5XoF6JaZoLMLQMwuXmOC4rlXKAKKqnxFACEwYBhgL/s640/mini-2014-oficial-14.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E1c8ZVM7L1s/XF27SlBnX3I/AAAAAAABF8o/GjY3-ELMAPQ-Sj4VePLlIgC0wR3xg30NQCEwYBhgL/s1600/new_Mini_2014_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E1c8ZVM7L1s/XF27SlBnX3I/AAAAAAABF8o/GjY3-ELMAPQ-Sj4VePLlIgC0wR3xg30NQCEwYBhgL/s640/new_Mini_2014_1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I also rely on a lot of images that I can find online. The photos above work out very well to get the details of the vehicle to the right proportion when setting up the model in Blender. So a lot of research goes into setting up the model before I start modeling. Again the plus side to all of this is the fact that I own the car so I can get a close up view or photo of something on the car to get the detail exactly right.</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bZJbO0vY-UQ/XF289ebk17I/AAAAAAABF-A/FvRJ0gLSbYIcbWTJDpNwggcIvhhm7RqdQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2408.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bZJbO0vY-UQ/XF289ebk17I/AAAAAAABF-A/FvRJ0gLSbYIcbWTJDpNwggcIvhhm7RqdQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2408.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yO51CutPdPU/XF29LNA-psI/AAAAAAABF-E/hpltAwuSLvU495dE02TalnvA6YGscIhMwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2405.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yO51CutPdPU/XF29LNA-psI/AAAAAAABF-E/hpltAwuSLvU495dE02TalnvA6YGscIhMwCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2405.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's a good example of what one of the front headlights for the Mini looks like up close. It's the little details like this that I want to get into my Blender model and usually this is what makes the completed model stand out from the average looking model. </span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T1vEVMREQuI/XF29jZsyTsI/AAAAAAABF-Q/VSFBFnIA4awBVRbzy-wrYuWg84dxz5LHACLcBGAs/s1600/Hood.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="658" data-original-width="1215" height="346" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T1vEVMREQuI/XF29jZsyTsI/AAAAAAABF-Q/VSFBFnIA4awBVRbzy-wrYuWg84dxz5LHACLcBGAs/s640/Hood.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's a good start to the front hood of the car. I play around with the color of the car early on just to get an idea of how the completed model will look when I am done. I feel pretty good about the color at this point so I can check that off of my to do list for the model. The shape of the hood also at this point looks good as well. But with all of my Blender modeling it is tweaked over and over again until I am completely happy with the end result.</span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aCPTQQEfb8w/XF2_ZJRULcI/AAAAAAABF-c/NE1BsiAF3vY5xU8BW95I0eZi-xlzmcKSACLcBGAs/s1600/Mini%2BCooper%2BFront%2BEnd.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="780" data-original-width="1164" height="428" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aCPTQQEfb8w/XF2_ZJRULcI/AAAAAAABF-c/NE1BsiAF3vY5xU8BW95I0eZi-xlzmcKSACLcBGAs/s640/Mini%2BCooper%2BFront%2BEnd.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">After a bunch more hours work the lower front of the car is starting to take shape. It can get frustrating at times when a model just does not seem to fall into place. At that point I leave it sit for a couple of days and then go back at it. This morning the lower section that I thought I would not get laid down to my liking started to finally take shape. It still needs a bit more finessing but I am again happy that I am getting it worked out. Progress is being made and that is always a good thing. That is where I am at this point this morning anyway with the Mini Cooper Blender model.</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MlnGxczI7-k/XF3A_sa0h8I/AAAAAAABF-s/i_oo3DnQLWkuk-Sp1Fii8-NCyhOAcReYACLcBGAs/s1600/Green%2BAlien.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="843" data-original-width="741" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MlnGxczI7-k/XF3A_sa0h8I/AAAAAAABF-s/i_oo3DnQLWkuk-Sp1Fii8-NCyhOAcReYACLcBGAs/s640/Green%2BAlien.png" width="562" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Now for a completely different Blender 3D model pictured above is my version of a little green alien. I had modeled this guy years back and wanted to put more detail in the model but had lost him due to a major computer failure. I ended up losing this little guy along with a lot of other Blender models that I had worked on over the years. Luckily a large portion of the images to these models still remain so at least I have that much.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I had tracked down the instructional video that was put out nine years ago and decided that I wanted to recreate this little character once again. Here is the link for the video instructions on how to make your own little green alien. </span></div>
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<a href="https://vimeo.com/7905406" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">Box Model An Alien</span></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Some time down the line I thought it would be great to animate this character and with the instructions that I found to create what you see here the alien is laid out very well. He should work perfectly if I do want to animate him. Another idea I had was to modify this little guy to give him two eyes instead of one and maybe put some green fur on him. Both are easy modifications so it would be fun to play around with him to see what else I can come up with.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Also before I end here I wanted to let you know that the tutorial to create the alien is very easy to follow even for Blender 3D beginners. So look into it. I think you will enjoy making your own little green alien. Have fun!</span></div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-26544179831278317612019-01-30T08:46:00.000-08:002019-01-30T08:52:34.194-08:00The Tron Light Cycle Project Revisited<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bLLDuX6San4/XFHLFHiAxCI/AAAAAAABFvo/EKc8gnPekAYf5aiHakmKlwYs_61LYgGQwCLcBGAs/s1600/Tron%2BLight%2BCycle%2Bv4.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="941" data-original-width="1551" height="388" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bLLDuX6San4/XFHLFHiAxCI/AAAAAAABFvo/EKc8gnPekAYf5aiHakmKlwYs_61LYgGQwCLcBGAs/s640/Tron%2BLight%2BCycle%2Bv4.png" width="640" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Around three years ago or so I had thought of 3D printing a model of the Tron Light Cycle. For those of you who have never heard of this vehicle it came from a SciFi movie of course named Tron. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In the SciFi movie the main characters drove vehicles called light cycles. All done in special effects of course and looked like enclosed motorcycles that traveled at high speed leaving behind a light streak that no one could pass through. The good guys would chase bad guys eventually corning the bad guy in with the light streaks where he would crash and die. That was the highlight of the movie and was about the best that the movie had to offer. The movie itself was not one of my favorites but the vehicle has always stirred an interest in me so the project was seriously looked at when I first modeled it using Fusion 360 software. </span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uXVXZ1eyjxc/XFHLjuld3bI/AAAAAAABFv0/ndJB1RzIke4l5yo50gSCr-YEYdWWPIYJACLcBGAs/s1600/Tron%2BLight%2BCycle%2BBack.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="924" data-original-width="1479" height="398" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uXVXZ1eyjxc/XFHLjuld3bI/AAAAAAABFv0/ndJB1RzIke4l5yo50gSCr-YEYdWWPIYJACLcBGAs/s640/Tron%2BLight%2BCycle%2BBack.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The two images that you see above are of my Fusion 360 Tron Light Cycle. Fusion as you can obviously see makes my 3D computer model look real enough to touch in these images so it inspires me to look at making the computer model a real 3D printed model. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">At the time I modeled the light cycle I did not have a 3D printer large enough to make it the size that I had in mind. I wanted the model to be 24 inches long. This was not possible to make with the smaller 3D printer that I had owned at the time mainly because of the mid-section of the cycle would have been impossible to make to that scale. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">But now I own a much larger 3D printer capable of making much larger parts that are at least 80% as large as I want them for the light cycle. This would make it possible to make a light cycle that would be 21.4 inches in length! Close enough to satisfy working out the rest of the design to possibly start building a real 3D printed model of the light cycle. </span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M-sf_tHrUTU/XFHNxxOIIAI/AAAAAAABFwQ/p86Xmg2_-YYpYSoAk3CVSu7raUwUNBS1wCLcBGAs/s1600/Tron%2BLight%2BCycle%2Bv3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="358" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M-sf_tHrUTU/XFHNxxOIIAI/AAAAAAABFwQ/p86Xmg2_-YYpYSoAk3CVSu7raUwUNBS1wCLcBGAs/s640/Tron%2BLight%2BCycle%2Bv3.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">My idea for the new 3D printed model of the Tron Light Cycle is to hollow out the interior of the body of the model and install a red Plexiglass panel at the rear tire and then light it from inside of the model. This would make the Plexiglass glow and give me a light streak effect. A nice effect if I can get the logistics of the model worked out. The picture above gives you a good idea of how the effect would look once the model was completed. </span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AKScvaIe9S4/XFHQhkVcEZI/AAAAAAABFwg/A8Sy4Ilki5IF2OZIBdiBs6O5-VAI-tL3ACLcBGAs/s1600/Light%2BCycle%2BCutaway.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="709" data-original-width="1422" height="318" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AKScvaIe9S4/XFHQhkVcEZI/AAAAAAABFwg/A8Sy4Ilki5IF2OZIBdiBs6O5-VAI-tL3ACLcBGAs/s640/Light%2BCycle%2BCutaway.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In the image above you can see a cut-away view of the center section of the light cycle. After looking at my original Fusion 360 model yesterday I was able to clean up some of my original design and start working on solving some of the problems with my model. First off having the center section be hollow. This as you can see I did manage to work out and am happy with the fact that there is more than enough room for a power supply or batteries for lighting up the model and the light streak Plexiglass panel at the rear that I have planned. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I was also able to combine some parts for the model. The rear black section of the model that you see pictured above originally was to be made in two halves. I was able to combine these two pieces into one so 3D printing and assembly will be simplified. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The overall dimensions of my version of the Tron Light Cycle looks to be coming in at 21.36" long, 6.4" wide, and 8" tall. This does not include having a Plexiglass light streak coming out of the rear of the model. It should be pretty impressive if I can get the computer model worked out in Fusion 360. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The light cycle also will take quite some time to 3D print. The mid-section would be 3D printed in two halves and then combined in the final assembly. Just to 3D print one half of the mid-section will take approximately 40 hours. I still have a long way to go to figure out the total time to 3D print the model but so far it looks to be like the model will take a very long time to 3D print. But it still looks promising and since the weather outside to day is 25 degrees below zero it also looks like a good day to work on this project. I'll let you know if I get the bugs worked out of the design before giving the go ahead with actually making this large display. Stay tuned and stay warm.</span></div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-15561034721630857582019-01-18T08:46:00.000-08:002019-01-18T08:47:21.876-08:00The New Glovebox For My Dune Buggy Is Completed!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">About three weeks ago I put out a post about my glovebox project for my dune buggy. I am again happy to report that I put the finishing touches to the project yesterday and have it fully installed into my little buggy.</span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OaDUNY71q7U/XEHyDJtouKI/AAAAAAABFS8/lSLAy8spptUgpE_hT0sFIzz9-w7n6PtgQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2183.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OaDUNY71q7U/XEHyDJtouKI/AAAAAAABFS8/lSLAy8spptUgpE_hT0sFIzz9-w7n6PtgQCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2183.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This is where I left off on the last post. The outer frame for the door had been attached to the body of the glovebox. In the bottom of the glovebox you can see a cutout that was needed to allow room for a mounting point that is on the roll cage in the car. Without this cutout the glovebox could not be installed.</span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sRwgzDMa8MI/XEHyEHuUhLI/AAAAAAABFSs/IxWa9nlnW5cQUry6CEWHQCrfr0FD1Fn2QCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2186.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1268" data-original-width="1600" height="506" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sRwgzDMa8MI/XEHyEHuUhLI/AAAAAAABFSs/IxWa9nlnW5cQUry6CEWHQCrfr0FD1Fn2QCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2186.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P0H74RDN3CQ/XEHyEmqcpKI/AAAAAAABFSc/JVie6f75KV8mlfrUdmEmk0XmxZ9UoNcgwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2189.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1215" data-original-width="1600" height="486" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P0H74RDN3CQ/XEHyEmqcpKI/AAAAAAABFSc/JVie6f75KV8mlfrUdmEmk0XmxZ9UoNcgwCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2189.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">To clean up the opening that I had made for the roll cage mount I 3D printed a small blister that would be mounted over this opening. This as you can see was a very small part so it took very little time to get it sanded smooth so that I could put a nice coat of primer on it. </span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Hy0d1n3GLlA/XEHyGKABVPI/AAAAAAABFSw/NfMfw7CJFRkE7hQ0HjHBX0C2956k-vErQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2191.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Hy0d1n3GLlA/XEHyGKABVPI/AAAAAAABFSw/NfMfw7CJFRkE7hQ0HjHBX0C2956k-vErQCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2191.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This is how the blister looked once it had been mounted on the inside of the glovebox. Already a big improvement over the hole that was there. </span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vWTqjCiE4xY/XEHyHqSnKbI/AAAAAAABFSc/r2l5oXZNfEsnmogmfp_aAcRW6Min8DPOgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2228.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vWTqjCiE4xY/XEHyHqSnKbI/AAAAAAABFSc/r2l5oXZNfEsnmogmfp_aAcRW6Min8DPOgCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2228.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-buqrtRw1pMA/XEHyI1hrlwI/AAAAAAABFS4/79HtGnQGVEQhS9H--HrjnVrQLCEZkHl2wCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2229.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-buqrtRw1pMA/XEHyI1hrlwI/AAAAAAABFS4/79HtGnQGVEQhS9H--HrjnVrQLCEZkHl2wCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2229.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Next I had to check out the clearances for the door for the glove box along with the mounts that would only allow the door to pivot 90 degrees when I wanted to open it. This all worked out fine as you can see. The door handle/lock mounted up fine but I still needed to make sure that the latch for the door would work properly. </span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6WdulPixzTI/XEH4wcD5b-I/AAAAAAABFTg/dlVwnhFL1ZkMgLXpQ66sgqYI3cKNpfFPQCLcBGAs/s1600/Door%2BLatch.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="896" data-original-width="815" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6WdulPixzTI/XEH4wcD5b-I/AAAAAAABFTg/dlVwnhFL1ZkMgLXpQ66sgqYI3cKNpfFPQCLcBGAs/s640/Door%2BLatch.png" width="582" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v9kv91zObvY/XEH4wbtfBQI/AAAAAAABFTk/unEC3d_Sk_gS1QUmh8LsEwIjFEM2HdAxACLcBGAs/s1600/Door%2BLock.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="844" data-original-width="833" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v9kv91zObvY/XEH4wbtfBQI/AAAAAAABFTk/unEC3d_Sk_gS1QUmh8LsEwIjFEM2HdAxACLcBGAs/s640/Door%2BLock.png" width="630" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">For the glovebox I tracked down an original door handle/lock from a Volkswagen Beetle for it online. This was new old stock and cost me less than $20 so it was just what I needed. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> I knew that I did not want the striker for the lock to be made completely out of ABS plastic from my 3D printer. The striker needed to be made out of metal otherwise the parts would wear out very quickly. I created the striker from a small piece of aluminum I had in my supplies in the shop. It took me a little time to make but in the end I got a very nice striker put together. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The yellow part in the upper image is the striker slider. This part mounts the striker to the inside of the glovebox and is adjustable so that the door locks correctly. This little part I had to reprint on my 3D printer after my first attempt failed simply because it needed to be more solid. The original part had only a 20% fill. With this being that hollow it broke after only a couple of times trying to adjust it. I then modified the design just a bit to beef it up and increased the inner fill to 80%. This made the part very solid and strong that should last a very long time now. </span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jvK4eNzBsV8/XEHyXRwo8TI/AAAAAAABFSc/EyMju9SEKQEWdSXIWHZbOSKlY6NRWUTOQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2252.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jvK4eNzBsV8/XEHyXRwo8TI/AAAAAAABFSc/EyMju9SEKQEWdSXIWHZbOSKlY6NRWUTOQCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2252.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">With the new door handle/lock and latch assembly the door open and closed properly now. In the photo above the glovebox is really coming together with primer now being applied to the door. </span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gkI2dw4Bu2Q/XEHyMWHFHWI/AAAAAAABFSs/B4Ff_pGVd6c8tbj3NR2G0qkNe0Zk_FXagCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2241.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gkI2dw4Bu2Q/XEHyMWHFHWI/AAAAAAABFSs/B4Ff_pGVd6c8tbj3NR2G0qkNe0Zk_FXagCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2241.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-perxIQGzNgw/XEHyJt14bJI/AAAAAAABFS0/COPsILGxCOsEYi3gmbe40xtoRUcU5dIvgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-perxIQGzNgw/XEHyJt14bJI/AAAAAAABFS0/COPsILGxCOsEYi3gmbe40xtoRUcU5dIvgCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2232.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The next process in the project was to getting the mounting holes drilled for the glovebox so that it would be set up for the car when the assembly was completed. I placed the glove compartment into the cavity in the dash where it would be mounted and then marked where I needed the mounting holes. The little blister in the interior of the glovebox worked out perfectly to at this point so the glovebox slide into place with no problems.</span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--9rjFEo7vz4/XEHyZbEnMEI/AAAAAAABFS8/HmH7WyDqg9wqNkg8iuCPwnA7E1pQFTE-ACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2254.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--9rjFEo7vz4/XEHyZbEnMEI/AAAAAAABFS8/HmH7WyDqg9wqNkg8iuCPwnA7E1pQFTE-ACEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2254.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FL2R8nZZ9Ls/XEHyaRGrTWI/AAAAAAABFTI/LqgPuMjlYqkl_-MOJ6xP7AdzPOVXOzrNACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2255.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FL2R8nZZ9Ls/XEHyaRGrTWI/AAAAAAABFTI/LqgPuMjlYqkl_-MOJ6xP7AdzPOVXOzrNACEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2255.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">After having drilled the mounting holes for the glovebox and making sure all of the hardware to mount it worked properly I then returned to my little spray booth and started priming the glovebox inside and out. </span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Al9osHEAaL4/XEHyfAZg7fI/AAAAAAABFTI/dz2np4QikMgprwq3s6e4nagXlLiSHgWIgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Al9osHEAaL4/XEHyfAZg7fI/AAAAAAABFTI/dz2np4QikMgprwq3s6e4nagXlLiSHgWIgCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2268.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ffEZXOpOWgM/XEHyjosuLNI/AAAAAAABFS0/PrFJ53sg4wAZSqOx2Lr3ogu9XTO19-1BgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2276.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ffEZXOpOWgM/XEHyjosuLNI/AAAAAAABFS0/PrFJ53sg4wAZSqOx2Lr3ogu9XTO19-1BgCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2276.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">After I had primed and sanded and primed and sanded the glovebox three or four times I was finally rewarded with a nice smooth exterior ready for paint. I knew that I wanted to black out the interior of the glovebox so I taped everything off on the exterior and sprayed the interior a nice semi-gloss black. This turned out very well and went quicker than I had hoped.</span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p1W3nZH3UJQ/XEHynVoQhXI/AAAAAAABFS4/ZqJ5cppWp9cQH0i5_0mRXEWIV625x1yLwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2280.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p1W3nZH3UJQ/XEHynVoQhXI/AAAAAAABFS4/ZqJ5cppWp9cQH0i5_0mRXEWIV625x1yLwCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2280.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y9z-_mQB2IM/XEHynZSLALI/AAAAAAABFTI/YmSQN4Npx28p6-WJuJo8LrXnfd1fgoqcACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2284.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y9z-_mQB2IM/XEHynZSLALI/AAAAAAABFTI/YmSQN4Npx28p6-WJuJo8LrXnfd1fgoqcACEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2284.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nWsFaQs0qZo/XEHyoSa8jFI/AAAAAAABFTI/Bt6rwz3bGA80dwvgyrdoH6Mud2N-HLOZwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_2286.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nWsFaQs0qZo/XEHyoSa8jFI/AAAAAAABFTI/Bt6rwz3bGA80dwvgyrdoH6Mud2N-HLOZwCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_2286.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Again I repeated this process but in reverse. I taped off the interior of the glove box and sprayed the outside a nice glossy red. I was happy that I was able to lay the paint down with no issues and it turned out nice and smooth. </span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FiL4_9tlzLI/XEH_D1jn3rI/AAAAAAABFUk/EAsNIdwjsKsMZzeg9OdN7hywe-oQ6nUogCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2339.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FiL4_9tlzLI/XEH_D1jn3rI/AAAAAAABFUk/EAsNIdwjsKsMZzeg9OdN7hywe-oQ6nUogCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_2339.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">After the paint on the glovebox had dried for several days I was rewarded with the installation being completed in short order without any major issues. The paint I had used on the glove box is a very close match to what is used in the dune buggy so another win for sure. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I was able to mount a black piece of fender trim around the outer edge of the glovebox where it meets the dash and it sets off the installation perfectly. Like the glovebox had been there since the car was assembled. Works for me. Now I have the perfect place to store my registration and insurance papers along with whatever else I want to put in this nice new storage compartment. A perfect addition to the car that blends in nicely with the rest of the dash!</span></div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5316268823281804044.post-87759976075121724692019-01-14T11:49:00.001-08:002019-01-14T11:49:12.188-08:00New Bluetooth Wireless Speaker Setup For My Dune Buggy!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">With all of the projects that I have been working on recently with my dune buggy this one has been very interesting and rewarding so far to create. My dune buggy did not have a radio installed in it but had speakers that were either mounted in very bad locations or simply could not be heard because of it's location or the radio was not powerful enough to make it work in the first place. I removed the offending speakers for several reasons other than just the sound quality being bad. The speakers behind the seats were less than an inch from the back of the seats so these were the first to go. The speakers that were mounted in the foot wells would have been ok I guess but made driving the car uncomfortable simply because that speaker took up valuable foot space. Once I removed the front speakers I was able to regain foot space for driving which in itself was worth the loss of the speakers right off the bat.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">But like any other car I have owned I wanted to have a speaker setup that I could hear in the car so that I could have tunes while I was driving down the road or just being parked somewhere. I came up with the solution to this problem after I had removed the two front speakers in the foot wells. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I was sitting in the drivers seat playing with the seatbelt and had a small wireless Bluetooth speaker resting in the passengers seat. I picked up the speaker while it was playing and held it up close to the roll cage that is mounted in the car. This roll cage has two connecting roll bars that run from the front roll bar to the rear roll bar that is just behind the seats. These two upper roll bars are placed six inches apart. A perfect location for a speaker setup. I raised the small Bluetooth speaker up between these upper roll bars and thought to myself "This is where a new wireless Bluetooth speaker needs to be!". At that point this project was born.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I immediately started shopping online for my new Bluetooth wireless speaker. I sifted through the likely candidates and found what I needed with the Tronsmart speaker. Wireless Bluetooth, Micro-SD card capable, 40 watts of power, 15 hour battery life, and a nice compact size that I knew would work for the project. I ordered the speaker from Amazon for around $50 and in a couple of days it was in my hands. I charged it up and synced it to my iPad. This little speaker has plenty of volume so I know it will work for cruising in the dune buggy. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">As usual I dived into designing the new speaker housing for the dune buggy using Fusion 360 software. I started taking measurements of the speaker itself which is only around 7.5 inches long, by 2.25 inches wide, by 3.25 inches tall. My setup would lay the speaker down on it's face so the sound would be pointed down toward me and a passenger being as the speaker would be above our heads. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The space between the roll bars over our heads runs from the front roll bar to the rear roll bar and is six inches apart. More than enough room to mount the new speaker and secure it properly. I wanted to be able to turn the speaker on and off and also control volume, song selection, etc. from the drivers seat. Again the spacing between the bars easily made the new mount you see pictured above possible. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The speaker mount is designed so that it is bolted on to the roll cage. The lower portion of the speaker mount has a locking door that is designed to hold the speaker in place and can easily be unlocked to remove or install the speaker when it needs to be recharged after having played for 15 hours of use. The locking setup was simple enough to secure the speaker so that it cannot be stolen from the car and still can be used to quickly remove the speaker when it does need recharging. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">First I started with the top housing for the speaker. Here pictured above is this housing with the mounting holes setup for it along with the arms that would wrap over the top of the roll cage when it is mounted. The little window at the top of the housing (bottom image) is needed to be able to access the on/off switch along with the port for the micro-sd card and a couple other ports for audio connections. Inside this housings cavity is adequate room for the speaker to be installed without any issues but not so large as to having the speaker move about in the space. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The lower portion of the enclosure needed to again wrap around the speaker but also allow access to the volume controls that would be facing the driver. Thus as you can see the reason for the open side of this part of the enclosure. If I had closed up this open side the controls for volume and song selection controls would have been covered up making it impossible to use. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Finally the bottom door was designed with a simple hinge (on the left) and an opening for the lock (on the right).</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Stacked all together the assembly looks like the image pictured above. The hinge would use a simple 1/4" aluminum pin running through the two door mounts (in green) and the centered hinge mount on the lower housing (in yellow).</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">After 34 hours of 3D printing I had my housing completed. The top of the housing took the longest as this was a 15 hour long print to make. I was very happy when I completed this part of the build and that it turned out as well as it did. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here you can see the Bluetooth speaker beside the housing with the lower door unlocked ready to install unit into it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here finally is the speaker installed into my dune buggy. It went in first time without a hitch. A real pleasure to have it go in so smoothly. I will pull it out of the car yet and take it all apart so that I can properly sand <span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline !important; float: none; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 24px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">the housing </span>smooth and prep it for gloss black paint. My brother had asked me why I was going to paint it rather than leave it like it is. I could go without painting it but over time the black 3D printed part would fade with it being out in the sunlight. I then would be forced to paint so now is as good a time as any so I might as well paint it now before I install it for good. With that being said that will be my next step in the process. But for now these photos will do for this posting to show you what will be in the car for this summer. Time to get the sun tan lotion ready and crank up the tunes for some serious cruising!</span></div>
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Dave Langkamphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13852456459188159285noreply@blogger.com1